which gasket to block heat crossovers?

[B5charger]

I am still having problems with what I believe is boiling fuel/vapour lock.  I have a hell of a time starting after the car is hot and sat for 15 mins or more.  Once the car has sat and cooled (overnight) it starts no problem.  I put a 1/2 inch spacer which didn't seem to help so now I'm reading more about changing the intake gasket with the heat crossovers blocked.  Problem is I don't know which one to get for my 71 318 with an eddy performer intake 2176.  Can someone help me?

[Kern Dog]

The big block ones are common. I don't know of any company that makes them for small block engines. YOU could make your own inserts out of thin guage sheet metal.

[green69rt]

Don't have a clue but could there be another problem?   Big blocks have a fuel vapor separator.  Maybe that would help.   Lots of folks run your setup with no problems.  keep looking!!!!

[green69rt]

Just read you post again, going to go out on a limb.  Check the float bowl level.  A high level will keep the engine flooded.  Smell gas when it won't start??  Again, a real stretch, keep looking!!

[B5charger]

Don't smell gas when trying to start.  Never thought that it might be a flooding problem.  Have tried just cranking without pumping until I get fed up and pump to start. When it's cold and I start it, like I said before; I pump it a bunch of times before cranking and it starts up right away.

[2Luke2]

The one we will be using is: Fel-Pro Gasket Valley Pan Embossed Metal Chrysler Big Block Kit 1215  Got it on ebay for about 30 bucks shipped.

[B5charger]

Do you have to make any modifications to it?

[oestermarken]

The one we will be using is: Fel-Pro Gasket Valley Pan Embossed Metal Chrysler Big Block Kit 1215  Got it on ebay for about 30 bucks shipped.

It will not fit the Small Block!

/Brian

[2Luke2]

The one we will be using is: Fel-Pro Gasket Valley Pan Embossed Metal Chrysler Big Block Kit 1215  Got it on ebay for about 30 bucks shipped.

It will not fit the Small Block!

/Brian

Crap, sorry about that... I guess I mis-read the 318 for a 383.

[Chryco Psycho]

The 1214 is the B block 383/400
1215 is the RB block 413/416w & 440
For the small blocks I use a chunk of the old intake gasket & cut it to size to fit the hole & silicone it into place .

[Dino]

This is weird.  

When heat in the carb is the issue, the fuel boils out real quick.  The worst my car did was having this issue when I turned it off to pump gas or quickly went into a store.  I would have to crank about 5 seconds to get the fuel back in the carb and fire it up.  After 15 minutes or more it should not take longer than that either.  All that needs to happen is bring fuel from the tank back to the carb.  

Does the car run as it should when hot?  

[B5charger]

If I go to the gas station even during a long drive, it starts right up.  It drives great hot or cold.  After sitting overnight it starts up fine (after pumping the gas 7/8 times before turning the key). Just having trouble starting after it's hot and sat for more than 15 min and hasen't completely cooled yet.

[Dino]

If I go to the gas station even during a long drive, it starts right up.  It drives great hot or cold.  After sitting overnight it starts up fine (after pumping the gas 7/8 times before turning the key). Just having trouble starting after it's hot and sat for more than 15 min and hasen't completely cooled yet.

That does not sound like fuel boiling out.  Even without choke, the car should start pretty much right away although you would have to feather the gas pedal to keep it running.  Having to pump that many times is not normal.  My choke is gone and I push the pedal once before I turn the key.  It starts up at first try every time.

So 318 with an eddy performer intake and carb. And an electric choke.  Disconnect the choke and see how she starts and runs now.  Just to rule it out.

Properly tuned the car should fire up right away when cold, but it won't stay running until you feather the pedal.  If it stalls it should fire up again right away.

If the car starts nicely and keeps running then the carb is too rich.  Any fuel smell coming out of the exhaust at idle by the way?

Another thing to rule out is improper tank venting so easiest way to check, when the engine is hot and you expect to be cranking for a while to restart it, open the gas cap and try.  If it starts up right away you have found the problem. 

This is a 71 right?  Does it have the charcoal canister in the back to separate vapor?

[B5charger]

Dino, Just came back from a drive and let it sit for a couple of hours.  I looked down the carb and pulledthe throttle back a few times.  I could see gas squirting out. So I guess the gas is not boiling.  I did notice the choke plate was still open.  I tried closing it but it would just pop open.  I layed a wrench across it to keep it closed and she started right up.  Will the choke plate only close when the engine is cold or do I have it adjusted wrong?

[71 SE3834V]

If your engine started with the choke closed then your engine is wanting more fuel to start. This is also why it starts after you pump the pedal. Like you saw, when you pump the pedal it squirts fuel.
The choke will not close until you push the pedal down and "set" the choke. If your engine is still warm after a couple of hours then the choke won't close.
It isn't too unusual to have to hold the pedal down a 1/4 way or so when starting a warm engine. I remember some starting instructions in owners manuals stating so. If you are having to hold the pedal on the floor to start it now that's a flooding issue.
I'd make sure all the tune up issues are in good order and the idle mix screws are adjusted. 7 or 8 pumps to start a cold engine seems like alot to me. 1 or 2 is more normal. 7 or 8 maybe if it sat for a week or two. Did the fuel squirt out w/some force or did it just dribble out?

[B5charger]

The fuel is squirting out with some force.  I have to hold the pedal to the floor while cranking to get it to start when hot.  Is that a too much fuel problem?  What if I turn the idle mixture screws at the front of the carb in a half turn or so...should that help?

[Dino]

The fuel is squirting out with some force.  I have to hold the pedal to the floor while cranking to get it to start when hot.  Is that a too much fuel problem?  What if I turn the idle mixture screws at the front of the carb in a half turn or so...should that help?

It's floading.  Did you ever change the float setting?  Has the car ever run well with the current carb setup?  I'd still disconnect the choke and try again.  Turn the idle screws in all the way and turn them back out 2 turns. That's a good place to start.  If neither solves or betters the issue, remove the carb, open it up and set the floats a little lower.  Try again.  Do not hook up the choke until you have found the problem.

[71 SE3834V]

Agreed.
Other than that the needle valves might not be sealing. You might be able to look down the carb when warm and see fuel dribbling out. Might be time for a rebuild if it hasn't been done already. If it has then reset the floats.

[B5charger]

The carb is brand new, so I have not touched the floats.  I'm very happy with it other than the starting when hot problem.  I'll try the idle screws and see if it makes any difference.

[71 SE3834V]

The idle screws are only going to effect the way it runs when it's idling. If you have to floor it to get it started when it's hot then it's spilling fuel into the intake when it's sitting.
How new? New as in "I just bought it a couple of months ago"? Or new as in "I bought it a few years ago but haven't driven the car much". I'm asking cause in my line of work people tell me that all the time. "It's new" when they mean they bought it a couple of years ago but they hardly used the item.
If it's new within a warranty I wouldn't be opening it up. I'd be taking it back. If it's newer, bought years ago, installed w/gas in it for that time period but not used much it could have some gum or debri keeping the needle from sealing. Or.......you got a fuel boiling issue like you originally thought. Tough call.

[Musicman]

 

Never thought that it might be a flooding problem.

That's what fuel boiling does, it floods the engine. Gas percolating in the carb gets the valves bouncing off the seats, gas trickles out of the carb into the intake, now your flooded and it won't start unless you put your foot into it a bit while cranking to clear it out again. The fuel in the bowl doesn't boil out and evaporate, it's still in there, which is why it starts right up again later when things cool down.

[71 SE3834V]

My car does the same thing occasionally. 15-20 shutdown when it's hot and I have to put it on the floor to start. It has the spacer but I won't do anything else about it until I get my timing chain issues taken care of and see how it does.
But here's another kicker. When the car sits for 3 or 4 weeks the fuel does evaporate out of the carb. Not a drop will pump out the squirters unless I fill the bowl through the vent. I have tried to crank it a bit but the fuel pump would not fill the carb fast enough for me. I ended up putting a new fuel pump on when it started to leak but haven't tried to fill the bowl with the pump yet. I did try one time to keep the fuel from evaporating by closing the choke and setting it up on the fast idle for storage. This allowed the vent in the carb to be closed and a couple of weeks later it still had some fuel left in it. I need to do some more trials w/it.

[Musicman]

But here's another kicker. When the car sits for 3 or 4 weeks the fuel does evaporate out of the carb.

Yea... the joys of todays modern fuels.
Yes, the fuel in the bowl will evaportate on it's own after a week or two if the car isn't started or driven anywhere. In this case, it's easier just to prime the bowl manually before starting, and then let the pump catch up. Of course, this is also one of those times when having an electric fuel pump really helps.

[71 SE3834V]

But here's another kicker. When the car sits for 3 or 4 weeks the fuel does evaporate out of the carb.

Yea... the joys of todays modern fuels.
Yes, the fuel in the bowl will evaportate on it's own after a week or two if the car isn't started or driven anywhere. In this case, it's easier just to prime the bowl manually before starting, and then let the pump catch up. Of course, this is also one of those times when having an electric fuel pump really helps.

Yes the joys of this oxygenated ethanol fuel. I deal w/it almost daily which is why I asked the OP if his car has sat for a length of time. A little show & tell:

[B5charger]

The carb is new as in I installed it last fall.  I was always under the impression that "boiling" meant the fuel was evaporating out of the carb and that's why it took so much pumping.  Am I better off flooring it while cranking?  Just barely depressing the gas, or pumping while cranking?