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H pipe placement question

Started by Dino, July 24, 2013, 06:55:37 AM

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Dino

I would like to install an H pipe kit on my car so not knowing for sure what size the pipes were I crawled under the car with some calipers and came back up more confused than before.  That's usually not a good sign!

So the pipe is supposed to be 2 1/4" right?  It measures like that in most places such as the short straight piece right before the mufflers.  The angled pipes going from collector to that point though are flattened.  I don't know why or how but they'r both the same so it measures 2 1/2" on the wide part and 2" on the narrow.  Roughly.  Is that normal?

Now, where exactly do I need to place this H pipe anyway?  It seems I have plenty room but if it needs to go on the slanted part of the pipes I will have to massage those slip over things to fit.  

Since the pipe is (or should be) 2 1/4" I assume that is the kit size I want?  

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

resq302

H pipes are 2 1/2" and tapers down to 2 1/4 where the muffler slides on.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

lukedukem

just curious, which kit (if any) are you going with.
1969 Charger XP29F9B226768
1981 CJ7 I6 258ci
2016 F150, 5.0, FX4, CC

Dino

I'm not sure where my exhaust came from but it did not have any crossover pipe.  It was a sb car originally so that exhaust is long gone.  The pipe also does not measure 2 1/2" except where it's flat.  Strange....

Any idea where the crossover should be placed?  That way I know where to measure again.

These kits seem to have a step up to slide over the pipes.  I guess where ever I make the cut, that's the size I want.

Quote from: lukedukem on July 24, 2013, 09:42:47 AM
just curious, which kit (if any) are you going with.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/30650/10002/-1?parentProductId=751638

Seems the same as the Summit kit, but free shipping at Jegs.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

bakerhillpins

Isn't there some sort of trick where you draw down the side of the pipe from the header with a crayon and watch it heat up. Where the crayon first starts to melt is where it goes?? Or sompin like that??  :shruggy:
One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

Dino

Quote from: bakerhillpins on July 24, 2013, 11:19:38 AM
Isn't there some sort of trick where you draw down the side of the pipe from the header with a crayon and watch it heat up. Where the crayon first starts to melt is where it goes?? Or sompin like that??  :shruggy:

I did hear about that trick with crayon or paint and it's worth a try.  I have crayons at work (don't ask) but it's a 20 minute drive home so by then I think all of it will be gone.   :icon_smile_big:
I'll try it tonight though and see what happens.

Since I want to bolt the kit in instead of welding, I guess I'm stuck with doing so somewhere on the straights where both pipes run parallel before going into the mufflers. 

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

bakerhillpins

Culled from the web: (which means it's true  :icon_smile_big: )

QuoteThis is exactly what we did on our circle track cars. Run the engine long enough to get the exhaust good and hot ,spray the pipes with cheap rattle can paint (we found white worked best for us) starting at the headers working toward the back of the car. The spot where the paint quit bubbling and burning off is where we put the X cross over (never used a H pipe). We did do some experimenting on location and according to our driver at the time this worked best . He said that he could tell a difference in power (seat of the pants dyno!) with the pipe installed this way.

One great wife (Life is good)
14 RAM 1500 5.7 Hemi Crew Cab (crap hauler)
69 Dodge Charger R/T, Q5, C6X, V1X, V88  (Life is WAY better)
96' VFR750 (Sweet)
Capt. Lyme Vol. Fire

"Inspiration is for amateurs - the rest of us just show up and get to work." -Chuck Close
"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits." -Albert Einstein
Go that way, really fast. If something gets in your way, turn.
Science flies you to the moon, Religion flies you into buildings.

Dino

Quote from: bakerhillpins on July 24, 2013, 11:58:24 AM
Culled from the web: (which means it's true  :icon_smile_big: )

QuoteThis is exactly what we did on our circle track cars. Run the engine long enough to get the exhaust good and hot ,spray the pipes with cheap rattle can paint (we found white worked best for us) starting at the headers working toward the back of the car. The spot where the paint quit bubbling and burning off is where we put the X cross over (never used a H pipe). We did do some experimenting on location and according to our driver at the time this worked best . He said that he could tell a difference in power (seat of the pants dyno!) with the pipe installed this way.



So it's not the first spot that burns but the last?  I've got white paint so I'll give it a shot!
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

flyinlow

I think the burnt paint or crayon trick is used to suggest a header extension length for use without an exhaust system at the track.

firefighter3931

Quote from: flyinlow on July 25, 2013, 10:49:34 AM
I think the burnt paint or crayon trick is used to suggest a header extension length for use without an exhaust system at the track.


Craig is correct ; the crayon trick is for an open header exhaust system using collector extensions.  :yesnod:

Dino, just install the crossover near the back of the transmission....that is where the factory installed them  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

flyinlow

Consider any future trans upgrade plans. A518 works with H or X pipe behind the trans. Gearvenders , H pipe behind unit. Don't think an X Pipe would work.  Keisler or Tremec not sure.

Just a thought.

Dino

Thanks guys.  I'll get the kit and will snap some pics when I'm ready to go.

It won't be any time soon but either a used ViperT-56 goes in or one of the new ones on ebay.  I want that 6 speed!  If I can do that I can also buy a better exhaust system but for the time being the H-pipe will make the current one more efficient and stabilize and support it.  Both pipes are sagging badly, creating leaks at the collectors.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Mopar Nut

Here's a good picture I borrowed from another thread.
"Dear God, my prayer for 2024 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last ten years."

Dino

Thanks for the pic!   :2thumbs:

I don't think the bolt on thing is going to work here, unless the pipes are perfectly parallel this cannot work.  Oh well, I'll just have to cut it a bit to make it fit and then take the whole thing to a shop to weld it all up.  If that's what has to happen then so be it.  I'd buy an entire H-pipe setup if it wasn't $200 +.  I'm sure I'd still have to modify it to make it fit the headers.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.