What is this heater valve out of? 68?

[Dino]

I bought this heater valve on ebay to compare it to my own which I can't seem to get to work properly as it won't shut the water off completely.  The new one doesn't either but only lets a little bit of water through so maybe swapping the stem seal will do it.

They look generally the same but there are a few differences.  The zinc plated one is the one I just bought, the brass tube one is my stock 69 valve (or at least that's what was bolted to the firewall when I got it).

There is no arm to attach the cable retainer to so I guess on the new valve it screws into the housing itself.  The lever itself is different.  No big return spring on the lever or machined slot in the front face.  The tubes sit higher on the new valve.  It's all minor differences which makes me wonder why they changed things in the first place.

So, what year is this from?  There are numbers on the 69 valve but nothing on the new valve. 

Any ideas where this came from?

[Dino]

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[Dino]

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[Dino]

I was going to omit the picture with my cat's feet in it but oh well, meet Charlie!

[cdr]

hello charlie!!! the one with the capillary tube is like the one on my 68,i dont know about the other one,also you can get the inside tube seal from dmt,i posted that in your other thread.

[Dino]

That's interesting.  So 68 and 69 are the same?  I always though they were different.  This can't be a '70 valve can it?  I thought those had a different type of valve.

I do have the new seal from those guys but I doubt it will fix my stock valve.  Maybe the new one.  If it fits and it works it's going on the car.  If I remove the zinc coating from the tubes it'll look stock.

[bakerhillpins]

I wouldn't think you would want to close off all flow to the heater core, just most of it.  The thought being that you don't really want to trap coolant in there for months on end. The "leaky" valve gives just enough circulation to move the coolant without causing you to feel hot when you don't want it. 

[Dino]

I wouldn't think you would want to close off all flow to the heater core, just most of it.  The thought being that you don't really want to trap coolant in there for months on end. The "leaky" valve gives just enough circulation to move the coolant without causing you to feel hot when you don't want it. 

I was thinking about that today because the new valve has only a slight gap whereas the stock valve is pretty much the same open or closed.  After looking it over again it seems the tubes themselves got whacked.  I can probably fix it but if the new one works, it's going in!  On the other hand, I have seen people say they put pressure on it to see if it seals and you can't do that if it's not supposed to seal all the way right?

I wish I could find out how this thing is supposed to work, nobody seems to know.

With my stock valve installed I have zero control over the heat.  If it's hooked up it will turn the cabin into an oven, no matter where the temp slider is.  Man that was fun when I found that out in August!!   

I did some more research and it seems that Ranco actually made these valves as an aftermarket product.  They were never licensed by Chrysler so hence no markings or tab to bolt the cable retainer to.  They have the numbers inked on and sice this was plated...well bye bye ink.

[bakerhillpins]

Ill take a look at the FSM on my phone in a few and get back to you if it says anything about the valve.

[bakerhillpins]

Don't see anything in particular.. is your car an AC car? The "Heater" section in the FSM doesn't show any valve, but the AC section does.

[cdr]

it works as a temp control,the capillary tube senses the temp & moves the valve accordingly to the cable setting against the spring ,there is also another heater valve inside the heater case.

[cdr]

heater valve is to the upper right

[cdr]

the valve on the fire wall should shut of all flow of water when temp setting is on cold.if not the ac wont work as well.

[Dino]

Now it makes more sense.  I had no clue there were two valves.

Okay so the one I pictured MUST seal 100%. 

I sure hope I can get one of them to work properly, I would like the heater to work but more so I would like the A/C to work!  It's too damn hot without.

Bryan it is a factory A/C car.  I checked the FSM yesterday and couldn't find much either.  So far I haven't pulled that much useful information out of that thing but one day!   

[cdr]

the capillary makes the valve open or close according to the temp setting. i am redoing my valve right now & just rebuilt my ac /heater box. 

[Dino]

I just don't understand the design of the plunger in the tube.  It fits real snug in the forward narrow part yet it's supposed to seal right where the tube gets wider? 

I'll put the new plunger seal on the zinc coated valve and keep my fingers crossed.  I'm sure I can transplant the capillary.  It had snapped off my old one but was able to wedge it in real tight and make contact.

[PlainfieldCharger]

Getting hear late on this one...The valve on the right is what I have on my 68. The valve on the right is what I have as an NOS Valve for 68. The one on the right... I have not seen before. 70 has a vacuum pod on it that move the assembly. Maybe between the two you can make one that will work..

[GMP440]

   The valve on the left that has no part number on is an aftermarket one. 
Napa used to sell those in the 80's as a replacement for the stock Chrysler one..   
   The valve / plunger assembly brand is "Everhot".  The plunger seal is a little different than the "Ranco", which is the one on the right. 
There are no replacement plunger parts for the "Everhot" one.  The round element on the valve that's on the left does not use a copper capillary
tube to sense heat from the heater box.  That round element is what senses the temperature.