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QA1 Suspension Install

Started by MSRacing89, July 18, 2013, 11:21:19 PM

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MSRacing89

That is correct.  The lower control except the 70 style E-body and B-body bar.  Plenty of options on the open market for these.  It has a much shorter arm and as an 1¼ or 1 3/8 size, will be more efficient then the earlier B-body bar.

I should update everyone on our progress with this front end.  We have been wrapped up with it for a while now and all went well after we got it aligned and sorted.  The combination of the new parts with our quick ratio steering made it feel like a new car.  I would absolutely recommend this anyone who feels that other tubular fronts are just to out of reach cost wise.  These allow you to have the updated feel and adjustement of tubular without destroying your bank account.

I was able to get -1.5º plus of camber and currently sitting at +6º of caster.  Along with the double adjustable QA1 shocks, there is infinite adjustment.   

We are prepping the car now for the Ultimate Street Car Association event at Laguna Seca in March.  This will be a QA1 sponsored car at the event, so if anyone wants to come and see it perform, come on out.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

WHITE AND RED 69

Setup looks killer! If I didn't already have the hotchkis setup I'd be all over this.

I'd love to come down and see the charger in action. What day is the event? Is your car running all weekend or a certain day? The laguna seca website doesn't show anything for Ultimate street car association?

:cheers:
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

2Luke2

Thanks for the update. I called QA1 and they basically told me this:

"The Mopar A-Body K-Member is designed for small block engine mounts and 1973-76 A-Body sway bar. The B & E-Body K-Members are designed for big block engine mounts and E-Body and 1971-72 B-Body sway bar."


White and Red 69, what Hotchkis parts do you have? Currently we have their UCA, strut rods, torsion bars, and tie rods. They don't make a LCA or tubular k frame. We got the QA1 tubular frame on the way and are thinking of picking up QA1s tubular LCAs.


So the question is... what year is our sway bar?

It looks like this:






WHITE AND RED 69

Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 14, 2014, 06:30:37 PM
Thanks for the update. I called QA1 and they basically told me this:

"The Mopar A-Body K-Member is designed for small block engine mounts and 1973-76 A-Body sway bar. The B & E-Body K-Members are designed for big block engine mounts and E-Body and 1971-72 B-Body sway bar."


White and Red 69, what Hotchkis parts do you have? Currently we have their UCA, strut rods, torsion bars, and tie rods. They don't make a LCA or tubular k frame. We got the QA1 tubular frame on the way and are thinking of picking up QA1s tubular LCAs.


So the question is... what year is our sway bar?


I have the full Hotchkis TVS kit along with the 1.03" torsion bars and fox shocks. I am using the stock lower control arms and frame but I added stiffening plates and everything has worked out great.

I do like the new tubular parts though, if I was starting over I would love to get the QA1 setup. Not a deal killer, but the one thing I wish they would have added though is a spot to mount a torque strap. Other than that it looks great. It definitely looks cleaner than the stock frame and arms. I still like the design of the Hotchkis upper control arms better though but that's just my preference.  

The 68-69 sway bars are different than the 70 bars. The bar pictured is the correct 70 one for the QA1 frame so if that is the bar you have you are good to go. So it's up to you if you think the lower arms are worth it. Are your lower arms in good shape? If they are in need of some work I'd go with the new ones. It might cost less for the new ones than it would to have the old ones straightened, coated, stiffening plates welded on, and new bushings installed. And the kit will work as intended and save a bit of weight.  :Twocents:

:cheers:
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

MSRacing89

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 14, 2014, 04:31:09 PM
Setup looks killer! If I didn't already have the hotchkis setup I'd be all over this.

I'd love to come down and see the charger in action. What day is the event? Is your car running all weekend or a certain day? The laguna seca website doesn't show anything for Ultimate street car association?

:cheers:

The event is March 7-9. I will be there the whole weekend doing all the events, along with some friends. Mike Musto might even be there with us.......basically I am saying it could get crazy!

The details should be coming on the USCA website.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

MSRacing89

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 15, 2014, 01:07:43 AM
Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 14, 2014, 06:30:37 PM
Thanks for the update. I called QA1 and they basically told me this:

"The Mopar A-Body K-Member is designed for small block engine mounts and 1973-76 A-Body sway bar. The B & E-Body K-Members are designed for big block engine mounts and E-Body and 1971-72 B-Body sway bar."


White and Red 69, what Hotchkis parts do you have? Currently we have their UCA, strut rods, torsion bars, and tie rods. They don't make a LCA or tubular k frame. We got the QA1 tubular frame on the way and are thinking of picking up QA1s tubular LCAs.


So the question is... what year is our sway bar?


I have the full Hotchkis TVS kit along with the 1.03" torsion bars and fox shocks. I am using the stock lower control arms and frame but I added stiffening plates and everything has worked out great.

I do like the new tubular parts though, if I was starting over I would love to get the QA1 setup. Not a deal killer, but the one thing I wish they would have added though is a spot to mount a torque strap. Other than that it looks great. It definitely looks cleaner than the stock frame and arms. I still like the design of the Hotchkis upper control arms better though but that's just my preference.  

The 68-69 sway bars are different than the 70 bars. The bar pictured is the correct 70 one for the QA1 frame so if that is the bar you have you are good to go. So it's up to you if you think the lower arms are worth it. Are your lower arms in good shape? If they are in need of some work I'd go with the new ones. It might cost less for the new ones than it would to have the old ones straightened, coated, stiffening plates welded on, and new bushings installed. And the kit will work as intended and save a bit of weight.  :Twocents:

:cheers:

WHITE/RED. I built a real cool torque strap for the QA1 front end. I will try and post a pic. Sometimes you have get creative!
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

WHITE AND RED 69

Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 15, 2014, 01:11:13 AM
Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 14, 2014, 04:31:09 PM
Setup looks killer! If I didn't already have the hotchkis setup I'd be all over this.

I'd love to come down and see the charger in action. What day is the event? Is your car running all weekend or a certain day? The laguna seca website doesn't show anything for Ultimate street car association?

:cheers:

The event is March 7-9. I will be there the whole weekend doing all the events, along with some friends. Mike Musto might even be there with us.......basically I am saying it could get crazy!

The details should be coming on the USCA website.

I'm definitely going to try to make it down there for at least one of the days.   :cheers:  Maybe even drive my charger there?   :scratchchin:

Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 15, 2014, 01:15:20 AM
WHITE/RED. I built a real cool torque strap for the QA1 front end. I will try and post a pic. Sometimes you have get creative!

Nice! Post it up. I guess with the 70 sway bar the torque strap could attach at the same point as the sway bar bracket? Right???   :shruggy:

If your taking photos get a couple shots of those brake cooling ducts in the spoiler. I love that idea and it looks killer! Might steal that idea one day.
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

myk

Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 14, 2014, 11:17:28 AM
That is correct.  The lower control except the 70 style E-body and B-body bar.  Plenty of options on the open market for these.  It has a much shorter arm and as an 1¼ or 1 3/8 size, will be more efficient then the earlier B-body bar.

I should update everyone on our progress with this front end.  We have been wrapped up with it for a while now and all went well after we got it aligned and sorted.  The combination of the new parts with our quick ratio steering made it feel like a new car.  I would absolutely recommend this anyone who feels that other tubular fronts are just to out of reach cost wise.  These allow you to have the updated feel and adjustement of tubular without destroying your bank account.

I was able to get -1.5º plus of camber and currently sitting at +6º of caster.  Along with the double adjustable QA1 shocks, there is infinite adjustment.   

We are prepping the car now for the Ultimate Street Car Association event at Laguna Seca in March.  This will be a QA1 sponsored car at the event, so if anyone wants to come and see it perform, come on out.

Thanks for keeping us updated.  Is this system that much of a difference in price compared to other front-end kits? 

MSRacing89

Quote from: myk on January 15, 2014, 03:39:23 AM
Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 14, 2014, 11:17:28 AM
That is correct.  The lower control except the 70 style E-body and B-body bar.  Plenty of options on the open market for these.  It has a much shorter arm and as an 1¼ or 1 3/8 size, will be more efficient then the earlier B-body bar.

I should update everyone on our progress with this front end.  We have been wrapped up with it for a while now and all went well after we got it aligned and sorted.  The combination of the new parts with our quick ratio steering made it feel like a new car.  I would absolutely recommend this anyone who feels that other tubular fronts are just to out of reach cost wise.  These allow you to have the updated feel and adjustement of tubular without destroying your bank account.

I was able to get -1.5º plus of camber and currently sitting at +6º of caster.  Along with the double adjustable QA1 shocks, there is infinite adjustment.   

We are prepping the car now for the Ultimate Street Car Association event at Laguna Seca in March.  This will be a QA1 sponsored car at the event, so if anyone wants to come and see it perform, come on out.

Thanks for keeping us updated.  Is this system that much of a difference in price compared to other front-end kits? 

I would say a considerable difference.  It's $4k just to get started with the other makes and that does not even get into some of the fab work, shocks and brake system.  I would say you could easily be $6k-$7K + into it by the time you are done.

Go to QA1 or Summit to get a real look at the prices.  I would guess, even with a good set of adjustable shocks, you are right around $3K for the whole front end.  It accepts stock style Spindles, so that is a bonus as you have a lot more options to save money on the brake package at that point.

Personally, I would stick to the QA1 set-up.  We outrun guys all over the place with the fancy front ends and that was even when we have the stock K in there.  It really comes down to having the car sorted and handling correctly.......Brakes, shocks, tires, safety, HP, proper cooling, etc......then fancy front ends!!
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

myk

Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 15, 2014, 10:55:29 AM
Quote from: myk on January 15, 2014, 03:39:23 AM
Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 14, 2014, 11:17:28 AM
That is correct.  The lower control except the 70 style E-body and B-body bar.  Plenty of options on the open market for these.  It has a much shorter arm and as an 1¼ or 1 3/8 size, will be more efficient then the earlier B-body bar.

I should update everyone on our progress with this front end.  We have been wrapped up with it for a while now and all went well after we got it aligned and sorted.  The combination of the new parts with our quick ratio steering made it feel like a new car.  I would absolutely recommend this anyone who feels that other tubular fronts are just to out of reach cost wise.  These allow you to have the updated feel and adjustement of tubular without destroying your bank account.

I was able to get -1.5º plus of camber and currently sitting at +6º of caster.  Along with the double adjustable QA1 shocks, there is infinite adjustment.   

We are prepping the car now for the Ultimate Street Car Association event at Laguna Seca in March.  This will be a QA1 sponsored car at the event, so if anyone wants to come and see it perform, come on out.

Thanks for keeping us updated.  Is this system that much of a difference in price compared to other front-end kits? 

I would say a considerable difference.  It's $4k just to get started with the other makes and that does not even get into some of the fab work, shocks and brake system.  I would say you could easily be $6k-$7K + into it by the time you are done.

Go to QA1 or Summit to get a real look at the prices.  I would guess, even with a good set of adjustable shocks, you are right around $3K for the whole front end.  It accepts stock style Spindles, so that is a bonus as you have a lot more options to save money on the brake package at that point.

Personally, I would stick to the QA1 set-up.  We outrun guys all over the place with the fancy front ends and that was even when we have the stock K in there.  It really comes down to having the car sorted and handling correctly.......Brakes, shocks, tires, safety, HP, proper cooling, etc......then fancy front ends!!

So you buy the K-member, upper and lower CA's, strut rods, tie rods...what sway bar?


2Luke2

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 15, 2014, 01:07:43 AM
Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 14, 2014, 06:30:37 PM
Thanks for the update. I called QA1 and they basically told me this:

"The Mopar A-Body K-Member is designed for small block engine mounts and 1973-76 A-Body sway bar. The B & E-Body K-Members are designed for big block engine mounts and E-Body and 1971-72 B-Body sway bar."


White and Red 69, what Hotchkis parts do you have? Currently we have their UCA, strut rods, torsion bars, and tie rods. They don't make a LCA or tubular k frame. We got the QA1 tubular frame on the way and are thinking of picking up QA1s tubular LCAs.


So the question is... what year is our sway bar?


I have the full Hotchkis TVS kit along with the 1.03" torsion bars and fox shocks. I am using the stock lower control arms and frame but I added stiffening plates and everything has worked out great.

I do like the new tubular parts though, if I was starting over I would love to get the QA1 setup. Not a deal killer, but the one thing I wish they would have added though is a spot to mount a torque strap. Other than that it looks great. It definitely looks cleaner than the stock frame and arms. I still like the design of the Hotchkis upper control arms better though but that's just my preference.  

The 68-69 sway bars are different than the 70 bars. The bar pictured is the correct 70 one for the QA1 frame so if that is the bar you have you are good to go. So it's up to you if you think the lower arms are worth it. Are your lower arms in good shape? If they are in need of some work I'd go with the new ones. It might cost less for the new ones than it would to have the old ones straightened, coated, stiffening plates welded on, and new bushings installed. And the kit will work as intended and save a bit of weight.  :Twocents:

:cheers:

White and Red 69, Thanks for the info! We didn't buy the rear kit yet, but we pieced the front kit together along with the QA1 parts. We are probably going to go for the QA1 LCAs because our stock LCAs have a small rip in the driver side where the wheel was turned too far. I would have to take a picture to show you what I mean. Either way we thought the same as you and said that upgrading and spending about the same or even a bit more would be better for us. Can't wait for everything to get here. We will definitely take some photos during the process of course.

MSRacing89

Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 15, 2014, 01:25:06 AM
Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 15, 2014, 01:11:13 AM
Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on January 14, 2014, 04:31:09 PM
Setup looks killer! If I didn't already have the hotchkis setup I'd be all over this.

I'd love to come down and see the charger in action. What day is the event? Is your car running all weekend or a certain day? The laguna seca website doesn't show anything for Ultimate street car association?

:cheers:

The event is March 7-9. I will be there the whole weekend doing all the events, along with some friends. Mike Musto might even be there with us.......basically I am saying it could get crazy!

The details should be coming on the USCA website.

I'm definitely going to try to make it down there for at least one of the days.   :cheers:  Maybe even drive my charger there?   :scratchchin:

Quote from: MSRacing89 on January 15, 2014, 01:15:20 AM
WHITE/RED. I built a real cool torque strap for the QA1 front end. I will try and post a pic. Sometimes you have get creative!

Nice! Post it up. I guess with the 70 sway bar the torque strap could attach at the same point as the sway bar bracket? Right???   :shruggy:

If your taking photos get a couple shots of those brake cooling ducts in the spoiler. I love that idea and it looks killer! Might steal that idea one day.

Here is a close-up of the Engine strut/ tie down arm we built for the QA1 front end.  It bolts to the front of the engine mount and down to a custom bracket welded to the QA1 K-member.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

1974dodgecharger

Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

2Luke2

Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on January 16, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

No autocrossing here, we just want the car to feel a bit more like a modern car when we do our spirited driving. :)

myk

Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 16, 2014, 07:59:41 PM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on January 16, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

No autocrossing here, we just want the car to feel a bit more like a modern car when we do our spirited driving. :)

Agreed.  These cars weigh less than many modern cars in its class; with some refinement and the proper driver I see no reason why these old machines can't hang...

myk

Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 16, 2014, 07:59:41 PM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on January 16, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

No autocrossing here, we just want the car to feel a bit more like a modern car when we do our spirited driving. :)

Any updates, photos? 

MSRacing89

Quote from: myk on February 01, 2014, 07:28:18 AM
Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 16, 2014, 07:59:41 PM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on January 16, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

No autocrossing here, we just want the car to feel a bit more like a modern car when we do our spirited driving. :)

Any updates, photos? 

What would like to see Myk? We are just getting the last few things together before we head to Laguna Seca next month. Currently working on refining bump steer. I have a few cool ideas that are way easier on the wallet then you think. Going to tackle that next Thursday.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1203phr_1968_dodge_charger/index.html

'68 Charger 440, 11:1, ported Stealth Heads, Lunati voodoo 60304, 3.23 gear, Mulit-port EZ-EFI, Gear Vendors OD and Tallon Hydroboost.

myk

Quote from: MSRacing89 on February 02, 2014, 03:09:28 AM
Quote from: myk on February 01, 2014, 07:28:18 AM
Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 16, 2014, 07:59:41 PM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on January 16, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

No autocrossing here, we just want the car to feel a bit more like a modern car when we do our spirited driving. :)

Any updates, photos? 


What would like to see Myk? We are just getting the last few things together before we head to Laguna Seca next month. Currently working on refining bump steer. I have a few cool ideas that are way easier on the wallet then you think. Going to tackle that next Thursday.

I wanted to see if Luke had installed more of his QA1 pieces, and how that was all working out for him; somehow I feel that watching you two progress with the QA1 installation might persuade me to go with either the QA1 or the Hotchkis TVS... 

2Luke2

Quote from: myk on February 02, 2014, 06:28:41 AM
Quote from: MSRacing89 on February 02, 2014, 03:09:28 AM
Quote from: myk on February 01, 2014, 07:28:18 AM
Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 16, 2014, 07:59:41 PM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on January 16, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

No autocrossing here, we just want the car to feel a bit more like a modern car when we do our spirited driving. :)

Any updates, photos? 


What would like to see Myk? We are just getting the last few things together before we head to Laguna Seca next month. Currently working on refining bump steer. I have a few cool ideas that are way easier on the wallet then you think. Going to tackle that next Thursday.

I wanted to see if Luke had installed more of his QA1 pieces, and how that was all working out for him; somehow I feel that watching you two progress with the QA1 installation might persuade me to go with either the QA1 or the Hotchkis TVS... 

I didn't want to hijack his thread. :)

We however were unable to install our QA1 k-frame and lower control arms. Both parts arrived damaged so we had to send them back for new parts. HOWEVER! QA1's support through the process thus far has been spot on. The only thing we disliked was having to wait for our parts to get there and the new parts to get sent back, but they wanted us to buy the parts again in order to cross ship and we didn't have the means to do that at the time. I understand they don't know us from a hole in the ground so we aren't upset about it. So we are currently waiting for the parts to come back. They might be here by next weekend, but no promises from us. We will probably make our own thread just not to take away from this one. Especially if our opinions of the product differ as we are paying retail for the parts and I believe MSRacing was given the parts(please correct me if I'm wrong). The rest of our Hotchkis suspension should be here this next week as well.


Brads70

The upper control arms look great! MUCH better than the CAP Auto design. If I didn't already have Hotchkis uppers I'd be interested in them! Good job!  :2thumbs: The sway bar is interesting to me! Especially with me running a BB! :icon_smile_big:

Big Sugar

I like the upper and lower control arms , nice  work , BUT im a little concerned with the sway bar mounts , with all the heavy 1"+ sway bars out there Id like to see a little more meat and maybe a cup style mount on the lower control arm. That little flange is gonna see a lot of flex with guys running lighter torsion bars and beefy sway bars.

Are the swaybar mount in the factory location ? Is this the same location for the QA1 sway bars ?

Ron



[img]<table border="0" cellpadding="0" style="border-collapse: collapse" width="182" id="table1" height="202" bordercolorlight="#ECEBF1" bordercolordark="#E9DFD1" b

Big Sugar

Whos upper control arm bushings and ball joints are you using ? Are the rubber or graphite ?

Ron



[img]<table border="0" cellpadding="0" style="border-collapse: collapse" width="182" id="table1" height="202" bordercolorlight="#ECEBF1" bordercolordark="#E9DFD1" b

myk

Quote from: 2Luke2 on February 02, 2014, 04:14:46 PM
Quote from: myk on February 02, 2014, 06:28:41 AM
Quote from: MSRacing89 on February 02, 2014, 03:09:28 AM
Quote from: myk on February 01, 2014, 07:28:18 AM
Quote from: 2Luke2 on January 16, 2014, 07:59:41 PM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on January 16, 2014, 07:02:54 PM
Seems this stuff is more for the hard core autocrosser than a daily driver type?

No autocrossing here, we just want the car to feel a bit more like a modern car when we do our spirited driving. :)

Any updates, photos? 


What would like to see Myk? We are just getting the last few things together before we head to Laguna Seca next month. Currently working on refining bump steer. I have a few cool ideas that are way easier on the wallet then you think. Going to tackle that next Thursday.

I wanted to see if Luke had installed more of his QA1 pieces, and how that was all working out for him; somehow I feel that watching you two progress with the QA1 installation might persuade me to go with either the QA1 or the Hotchkis TVS... 

I didn't want to hijack his thread. :)

We however were unable to install our QA1 k-frame and lower control arms. Both parts arrived damaged so we had to send them back for new parts. HOWEVER! QA1's support through the process thus far has been spot on. The only thing we disliked was having to wait for our parts to get there and the new parts to get sent back, but they wanted us to buy the parts again in order to cross ship and we didn't have the means to do that at the time. I understand they don't know us from a hole in the ground so we aren't upset about it. So we are currently waiting for the parts to come back. They might be here by next weekend, but no promises from us. We will probably make our own thread just not to take away from this one. Especially if our opinions of the product differ as we are paying retail for the parts and I believe MSRacing was given the parts(please correct me if I'm wrong). The rest of our Hotchkis suspension should be here this next week as well.



Oops I didn't think about the hijack-it just felt like a QA1 thread.  However I'm definitely interested in seeing your progress; please post up another thread if you must, and I hope you get your pieces soon!

2Luke2

So we ended up getting the parts back two more times. The 2nd time it the kframe was damaged again. So we had to ship it back again. Then the third time it looked great! Only issue... the place we ordered it from Autoplicity has the wrong part listed on this site. We got 52314 and we needed part number 52315. We only know this because we tried to install the kframe and it was an inch and a half off on the driver side motor mount. So we called them up and it will be two or three days to get an RMA number. Their customer support is just horrible, but I guess that's the price you pay when you look for the cheapest price. So we are currently still waiting on parts.