440 -> 505 Stroker build

[cdr]

neither does this one,its not at the k frame that is the problem look at the picture. the oil pan is rubbing on the steering link

[cdr]

this looks like the same pan you have

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,45582.msg498418.html#msg498418

[2Luke2]

I'm not sure why we would have a problem though. We took the pan off the motor that was in the car. it was painted with at least 3 layers of paint and about as many layers of dirt and oil on top of that. we just stipped it down to the metal. There wasn't any pait missing or damage on the pan that looked like it was rubbing. Please let me know if I'm missing something CDR? We would hate to get it all together only to find out it needs to come apart for the pan to be modified or replaced haha...

[cdr]

sorry, i thought you had gotten a different pan,if it was clearing before it should clear again ,i wasn't trying to be a pain in the a$$ ,by the way i really like your car.

[2Luke2]

No problem at all CDR, I thought I was just blind and didn't see what you were seeing. I'd rather double and triple check so I appreciate the advice either way.

Thanks again!

[2Luke2]

So I got my stroker kit from Hughes yesterday. I had them do the race balance, but now I'm thinking that was a bad idea because the crank needs to be ground or I need to buy X bearings. So I'm thinking after they grind it to spec they probably need to balance it again. What do you guys think? Should I have it ground it buy different bearings?

[cdr]

i am confused,it should be ready to run,it all needs to be checked,but should be good to go.

[cdr]

the kit should come with bearings

[2Luke2]

Well I had the machine shop look yesterday and they said that it either needs to be ground to spec or needs different bearings. Which sucks because that's why I paid them extra to balance it and they said it would be ready to drop in. Then I get to my machine shop and they say the crank is out of spec and needs to be ground or we need X bearings. It's an Eagle crankshaft and I have heard they have needed work. I think I will call them today and found out if it was under or over.

The kit did come with bearings, but apparently they aren't the right size according to the machine shop after they measured the crank.

Ok, just got off the phone with the machine shop and he said the crank is just a little on the high side and he would like to see another .001 of oil clearance. He said I could either grab a set of these X bearings or maybe a half set of bearings and make the adjustment like that.

[68CoronetRT]

Just thought I'd chime in and say that the only reason my motor runs today is due to Ron's help!!

Ok back to your normal thread broadcasting....

[firefighter3931]

Well I had the machine shop look yesterday and they said that it either needs to be ground to spec or needs different bearings. Which sucks because that's why I paid them extra to balance it and they said it would be ready to drop in. Then I get to my machine shop and they say the crank is out of spec and needs to be ground or we need X bearings. It's an Eagle crankshaft and I have heard they have needed work. I think I will call them today and found out if it was under or over.

The kit did come with bearings, but apparently they aren't the right size according to the machine shop after they measured the crank.

Ok, just got off the phone with the machine shop and he said the crank is just a little on the high side and he would like to see another .001 of oil clearance. He said I could either grab a set of these X bearings or maybe a half set of bearings and make the adjustment like that.

Luke,

What is the current bearing clearance and how much does the machinist want you to have ? 

I wouldn't do anything just yet because if there is a problem you should be contacting Hughes and having them fix it. 



Ron

[69charger440]

I agree with RON!!! Hughes would fix it. What did the crank measure out to be?

[2Luke2]

Sorry I forgot to update this. The machine shop said it was right in the middle of the spec. He was just hoping for another .001 of clearance for oil. I will call him in a bit and see what the actual reading was, but he's a good guy and isn't trying to get me to spend money for no reason. He just wants to make sure I'm safe, which I appreciate.

[2Luke2]

Alright I got a hold of him today. He said the mains were .003 under and the rods were just under .002 under. He said he would like to see a bit more on the rods, but should be ok for the street. What do you guys think?

[firefighter3931]

I agree with the machinist ; perfectly acceptable for a street engine. If it were going to be more strip than street i'd want the rod clearances a little looser. 

Mine are at .025 on the mains & rods but mine sees a lot of strip time. 


Ron

[2Luke2]

I agree with the machinist ; perfectly acceptable for a street engine. If it were going to be more strip than street i'd want the rod clearances a little looser. 

Mine are at .025 on the mains & rods but mine sees a lot of strip time. 


Ron

Awesome! I'm really happy with my machine guy... he is super nice and easy going and loves to talk shop. I never have to beg for information or reasons why he is always forth coming with information. The only thing he regrets is that the shop doesn't have all the pretty machines he would like to work with. Either way the work should be done soon and with a bit more time we should be gathering up the rest of the parts. Then pictures, pictures, pictures!

[john108]

I agree with the machinist ; perfectly acceptable for a street engine. If it were going to be more strip than street i'd want the rod clearances a little looser. 

Mine are at .025 on the mains & rods but mine sees a lot of strip time. 


Ron

TYPO??

[2Luke2]

I agree with the machinist ; perfectly acceptable for a street engine. If it were going to be more strip than street i'd want the rod clearances a little looser. 

Mine are at .025 on the mains & rods but mine sees a lot of strip time. 


Ron

TYPO??

I'd hope so haha!

[2Luke2]

I have talked to Ron about a converter and I understand the need for one, but the cost doesn't really make sense in my opinion and I wanted to see what you guys though. The stock 727 will most likely fail pretty quickly behind our new stroker motor with a little bit of convincing. Well not knowing I thought he had a stock torque convert, but I actually found a part number on it today and found out that we have this 10" off the shelf B&M converter. It supposed to be near factory stall though so for the most part I would expect it to act similar to having a stock stall.

http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26M/130/10415/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710681762&catargetid=1784156778&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CPKEsN--y7gCFY4WMgod3XUAJQ

WHEN the transmission does fail we were looking at either getting a new one from Cope Racing ,but instead of buying parts for this one we thought the money would be better spent on a new one. We were also throwing around the idea of converting the car to a 4 speed just due to the fact that we LOVE the pistol grip shift. I know this isn't an easy task, but it's nothing we aren't willing to take on.

So I guess the question we need opinions on is should we invest is a torque converter now knowing that we plan on switching over to a 4 speed in the near future or save the money towards our 4 speed conversion?

If we don't do the 4 speed conversion we are for sure getting a transmission with a reverse manual valve body with low band apply. Would this change the stall we would want as well?

The purpose of this vehicle is for daily driving and grins ear to ear when weather/traffic permitting.

[firefighter3931]

I agree with the machinist ; perfectly acceptable for a street engine. If it were going to be more strip than street i'd want the rod clearances a little looser. 

Mine are at .025 on the mains & rods but mine sees a lot of strip time. 


Ron

TYPO??

I'd hope so haha!

Dang....i did it again ! That's twice in the last month 

I meant two and a half thousandths....not twenty five thousandths 



Ron

[GPULLER]

I agree with the machinist ; perfectly acceptable for a street engine. If it were going to be more strip than street i'd want the rod clearances a little looser. 

Mine are at .025 on the mains & rods but mine sees a lot of strip time. 


Ron

TYPO??

I'd hope so haha!

Dang....i did it again ! That's twice in the last month 

I meant two and a half thousandths....not twenty five thousandths 



Ron

Well that would defiantly leave enough room for oil! ha ha ha

[2Luke2]

So we just wanted to update the thread. We got the block back yesterday and got it masked off and painted today. First time for us painting a block, but it came out 1000x better than when we got it and we are happy. Lisa thought to keep the block an iron looking color because it looks tough haha. Anyway we were going to paint it black to match the green, but feel this is going to look really good too. Attached some pics for your viewing pleasure!

We are going to chase some threads and then lay the crank and start filing piston rings.

[Challenger340]

Just a quick note here on Vertical Bearing Clearance....
remember...
Vertical bearing Clearance as it relates to Connecting Rod SIDE Clearance should never be overlooked as a "relationship", and precursor to Higher Engine temps during operation... with the Higher Oil temps it can cause leading to eventual bearing failure.


Pressure = HEAT !
The only way the Bearings cool during operation is by the constant...and adequate flow of Oil both IN.....and OUT....of the journal. "Tight" Side Clearance combined with "tight" Vertical clearance can be a recipe for disaster.
Just saying....
.0020" Vertical clearance may be absolutely fine for a street engine...... with.... ADEQUATE Rod side clearance on the journals to allow the heated Oil to leave and fresh oil IN to cool the bearings....but .0020" also can be a source of problems with IN-ADEQUATE rod side clearance...especially on the cheaper Chinese High Radius Filet Cranks requiring narrow bearings, and/or bearing chamfers even to turn over.

IMO, (but check with Hughes as for their opinion also regarding side clearance on .0020" Vertical)
Just make sure with .0020" Vertical bearing clearance, that the rods exhibit a good .016" to .018" side clearance in pairs during assembly.

[2Luke2]

Just a quick note here on Vertical Bearing Clearance....
remember...
Vertical bearing Clearance as it relates to Connecting Rod SIDE Clearance should never be overlooked as a "relationship", and precursor to Higher Engine temps during operation... with the Higher Oil temps it can cause leading to eventual bearing failure.


Pressure = HEAT !
The only way the Bearings cool during operation is by the constant...and adequate flow of Oil both IN.....and OUT....of the journal. "Tight" Side Clearance combined with "tight" Vertical clearance can be a recipe for disaster.
Just saying....
.0020" Vertical clearance may be absolutely fine for a street engine...... with.... ADEQUATE Rod side clearance on the journals to allow the heated Oil to leave and fresh oil IN to cool the bearings....but .0020" also can be a source of problems with IN-ADEQUATE rod side clearance...especially on the cheaper Chinese High Radius Filet Cranks requiring narrow bearings, and/or bearing chamfers even to turn over.

IMO, (but check with Hughes as for their opinion also regarding side clearance on .0020" Vertical)
Just make sure with .0020" Vertical bearing clearance, that the rods exhibit a good .016" to .018" side clearance in pairs during assembly.

Thanks for the advice! I will definitely call Hughes on Monday and get their opinion as well.

[2Luke2]

So I'm assembling my pistons,rods,pins and clips and I wanted to make sure I have this right..

The valve reliefs are near the intake valley. The rods have one side that has a larger chamfer on the big end of the rod. From what I understand that side goes towards the crank or faces away from the companion rod. Do I have that correct?

Also when putting the piston rod/pins/piston together is using assembly lube required for just mocking it up or can I put something like wd40 on it? I ask because I don't want it to get too messy and attract a lot of dirty or anything else that will stick to it.

thanks in advance!