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Subframe Connectors

Started by BY RSCO, January 23, 2013, 01:11:25 PM

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dangina

i used 1x3" you don't even have to cut the floor pan!





HeavyFuel

I like the US Cartools factory appearance.

They even have the periodic drain holes, which are about the right size and spacing.

Chatt69chgr

My subframe connectors welded in.

Highbanked Hauler

I am doing a set from US Car tool in my sons 74 Challenger and as has been said there is a lot of  fitting, welding and grinding but I think they will tighten up the car more than  the bolt in type.  The welded in ones  probably as strong. :Twocents:
69 Charger 500, original owner  
68 Charger former parts car in process of rebuilding
92 Cummins Turbo Diesel
04 PT Cruiser

miamivice

Quote from: bill440rt on February 08, 2013, 08:57:37 PM
:yesnod:

Not to take the thread on a detour, but tests have been done with bonded samples and they sheared before the adhesive let go. I figured heck, they're already bolted in place so what would it hurt? I didn't want to ruin the paint from welding, either.
I bolted them in first, and traced around the mating areas. Then, removed the framerail connectors and ground the mating surfaces to bare metal that I marked off before. Then, bolted them back in letting the adhesive ooze out, and smoothed it around the seams. They haven't budged. Just make sure you cover the bare metal areas completely with a layer of adhesive to prevent future corrosion.  :2thumbs:

I have a car that I have some bolt in subframe connectors...may have to try this out!   

pandamarie

Take a look at unlawful racings sub frame connectors. I have a set in my daytona project and they are made to last m encase the rear subframe from inside to torque rod hole, can be welded in or bolted, They also use the leaf spring bolts to hold the rear brace in place.