Fuel sending unit, which one to get?

[Dino]

I have the original fuel sending unit still from when this was a sb car and I'd like to install the vapor lock cannister I bought.  So I need a new sending unit with return line.

Which brand should I get and what ohm range are these using?  If it's not the same as the gauge then I'll try to find a short sweep matching gauge that I can put the original gauge cover on.

[XH29N0G]

I know this has not been posted on for a long time, but I thought I would ask here because a lot has been posted on this topic.  I see that there are issues with the range 10-73 ohms and the linearity of the sending units. Can someone help me answer these questions about sending units: 

(1) Has the range on all/most replacement sending units been corrected? (I see some on herbs autoparts and Mancini that are order $70 - I see some on at Year one and Mancini that are much more - >$130) what is the difference? 

(2) Have any of these replacements addressed the linearity issues? (I would like to keep my original fuel gauge); 

(3) Are there any fixes that can be done? (I have not seen any) that make a linear sender work with the gauge?

(4) Are there any recommendations for specific 3/8 inch sending units?

[Cooter]

Dino, take this for what you paid for it. Whatever sending unit you get, remove that stupid brass or plastic 'barrel' float and tack weld on one from a newer cars sending unit. You will regret it if you don't. They crack right where it snaps into the sender arm.
I have had to redo at least four because of this. They last about 2years and sh*t the bed in the worst times.

[charger Downunder]

Dino, take this for what you paid for it. Whatever sending unit you get, remove that stupid brass or plastic 'barrel' float and tack weld on one from a newer cars sending unit. You will regret it if you don't. They crack right where it snaps into the sender arm.
I have had to redo at least four because of this. They last about 2years and sh*t the bed in the worst times.

Too right they do crack. I bent the metal arm and made it bigger where it snaps into.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

If your original sender unit is still good you could modify it, that's what I do. Mopar Action magazine did a "How to" article on this several years ago. It's not a job for everyone but if you're into tasks like this you may consider it.

[Fred]

My plastic float is 45 years old and hasn't cracked yet. I transferred it to the new sending unit and it's still going strong.  Now I need to touch wood! 

[Mopar Nut]

Now I need to touch wood! 

You mean knock on wood.

[b5blue]

Now I need to touch wood! 

You mean knock on wood.

Oh Boy.....here we go.... 
  Dino are you changing out all the fuel lines? What size is the pickup you have now? (You could just add the return.) 

[XH29N0G]

I resurrected this post (assuming Dino solved the sending unit issue) because I had the same question and some other questions.  I'll repost that question in another thread.

[Dino]

I bought a new 3/8 sending unit a while back, I think it's one of the 'right stuff' ones but I forget.  I already transplanted my old 5/16 resistor so the fuel gauge will read correctly.

Cooter, the float on my stock unit seems to be in good shape but is brass like the new one.  Do you suppose it would be best to install the old float that apparently held up for 4 years?  Stick with the new float or still get another one?  If so, which do you recommend?  The sending unit is on my workbench so I don't mind doing more mods if it means having it work for decades to come.  

Blue I replaced my old stock lines with 3/8 and a 1/4 return and added the vapor separator.  I would have added a return line if the stock line was in better shape, but it was time to replace it.

[Dino]

I know this has not been posted on for a long time, but I thought I would ask here because a lot has been posted on this topic.  I see that there are issues with the range 10-73 ohms and the linearity of the sending units. Can someone help me answer these questions about sending units: 

(1) Has the range on all/most replacement sending units been corrected? (I see some on herbs autoparts and Mancini that are order $70 - I see some on at Year one and Mancini that are much more - >$130) what is the difference? 

(2) Have any of these replacements addressed the linearity issues? (I would like to keep my original fuel gauge); 

(3) Are there any fixes that can be done? (I have not seen any) that make a linear sender work with the gauge?

(4) Are there any recommendations for specific 3/8 inch sending units?

1) No, non have been corrected.  All new sending units have a linear resistor.  As far as I can tell, the only difference is price.  All are SS and have brass floats.  If you find one with a plastic float, it may be better (See Cooter's post).  Apart from that, get the cheaper one.  I paid around $40 for mine.

2) They have not.

3)  Yes, you can cut the resistor of your old unit and weld it to your new unit.  That will fix the linear issue.  Look for Charger-Bodie's post for a step by step with pics.

4) They're all made in China so whatever you buy, there's a factor of luck involved.


Sending units are incredibly simple so there's not much that can go wrong with them.  Since you need to transplant the resistor, it does not matter what the new one is made of, it's going away.  Again, when given the choice, buy the one with the better float whatever that may be!

[XH29N0G]

I know this has not been posted on for a long time, but I thought I would ask here because a lot has been posted on this topic.  I see that there are issues with the range 10-73 ohms and the linearity of the sending units. Can someone help me answer these questions about sending units: 

(1) Has the range on all/most replacement sending units been corrected? (I see some on herbs autoparts and Mancini that are order $70 - I see some on at Year one and Mancini that are much more - >$130) what is the difference? 

(2) Have any of these replacements addressed the linearity issues? (I would like to keep my original fuel gauge); 

(3) Are there any fixes that can be done? (I have not seen any) that make a linear sender work with the gauge?

(4) Are there any recommendations for specific 3/8 inch sending units?

1) No, non have been corrected.  All new sending units have a linear resistor.  As far as I can tell, the only difference is price.  All are SS and have brass floats.  If you find one with a plastic float, it may be better (See Cooter's post).  Apart from that, get the cheaper one.  I paid around $40 for mine.

2) They have not.

3)  Yes, you can cut the resistor of your old unit and weld it to your new unit.  That will fix the linear issue.  Look for Charger-Bodie's post for a step by step with pics.

4) They're all made in China so whatever you buy, there's a factor of luck involved.


Sending units are incredibly simple so there's not much that can go wrong with them.  Since you need to transplant the resistor, it does not matter what the new one is made of, it's going away.  Again, when given the choice, buy the one with the better float whatever that may be!

Thanks.  I had just reposted the question and then I saw this.

[el dub]

 3)     Look for Charger-Bodie's post for a step by step with pics.

I can't find this. Any help. thanks

[Dino]

3)     Look for Charger-Bodie's post for a step by step with pics.

I can't find this. Any help. thanks

There you go

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,57267.0.html

[XH29N0G]

I ran over my old sending unit so it is too flat to disassemble and use.  Any recommendations on where to get a donor unit for this task?  It looks like I will try the modifications.

[el dub]

3)     Look for Charger-Bodie's post for a step by step with pics.

I can't find this. Any help. thanks

There you go

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,57267.0.html

Thanks Dino

[Cooter]

Cooter, the float on my stock unit seems to be in good shape but is brass like the new one.  Do you suppose it would be best to install the old float that apparently held up for 4 years?  Stick with the new float or still get another one?  If so, which do you recommend?  The sending unit is on my workbench so I don't mind doing more mods if it means having it work for decades to come.  

Dino, take a ride by your Mechanic and see if he's replaced the fuel pump in anything newer like 99-up. If so, ask him if you can snip the metal arm and float off the bottom of the fuel sender/pump. I have about 50- of them in my stash. I ALWAYS [Yes, even with the brass ones as they crack too], Replace with newer floats. I just tack weld the arm from the newer unit onto my old one at the same place where 'Full' was so it will still read correctly. Not hard to do and will Last beyond you.

[Fred]

Now I need to touch wood! 

You mean knock on wood.

We say "touch wood" over here but you know what I mean.

[Mopar Nut]

Now I need to touch wood! 

You mean knock on wood.

We say "touch wood" over here but you know what I mean.

We knock the knots out of it here.   

[Fred]

Now I need to touch wood! 

You mean knock on wood.

We say "touch wood" over here but you know what I mean.

We knock the knots out of it here.   

Not an easy feat.

[JB400]

Now I need to touch wood!  

You mean knock on wood.

We say "touch wood" over here but you know what I mean.

We knock the knots out of it here.    

Not an easy feat.

You're not hitting it hard enough

[Ghoste]

Cooter, where is the point on the arm that you are snipping off and re-tacking?  Or does it matter?

[Cooter]

Cooter, where is the point on the arm that you are snipping off and re-tacking?  Or does it matter?

Don't matter long as you make sure it remains in the same location as the original float. I like to cut bout three inches up.

[ws23rt]

I wish I knew about this when I put my sending unit in.  My gauge reads about 1/2 when the tank is full.
There were no instructions that came with mine.  (from year one). 

[Fred]

Now I need to touch wood!  

You mean knock on wood.

We say "touch wood" over here but you know what I mean.

We knock the knots out of it here.    

Not an easy feat.

You're not hitting it hard enough

No, in fact I was only just giving it a bit of a poke.

[Mopar Nut]

Now I need to touch wood!  

You mean knock on wood.

We say "touch wood" over here but you know what I mean.

We knock the knots out of it here.    

Not an easy feat.

You're not hitting it hard enough

No, in fact I was only just giving it a bit of a poke.

  like this?

[Cooter]

I wish I knew about this when I put my sending unit in.  My gauge reads about 1/2 when the tank is full.
There were no instructions that came with mine.  (from year one).  

"I have spent thousands of dollars and hours researching this. And I'm willing to give some of it away"

[bill440rt]

It took a bit of trial & error, but I just bent the float arm a little to get it to read right. 
I did this with different amounts of gas in the tank. 1/4 tank, test. Drain. 1/2 tank, test. Drain. 3/4 tank, test, drain. Etc, until it was done.
Took a little while, yes it's messy, and it goes without saying it's best to do it outside. 

[cdr]

It took a bit of trial & error, but I just bent the float arm a little to get it to read right. 
I did this with different amounts of gas in the tank. 1/4 tank, test. Drain. 1/2 tank, test. Drain. 3/4 tank, test, drain. Etc, until it was done.
Took a little while, yes it's messy, and it goes without saying it's best to do it outside. 

away from the gas water heater.