News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Which gas tank is closest to original? Quanta or Spectra?

Started by resq302, June 13, 2013, 08:11:29 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

resq302

Like the subject says..... what gas tank would be closest to original in appearance?  Quanta (gastanks.com) or Spectra?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

I've never seen them side by side but I've heard nothing but good about the Quanta.  :shruggy:

bill440rt

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

resq302

We have Quanta in the charger and challenger but quite possibly need a gas tank for the GTX if we can't get the dent out of it.  I know someone had suggested Spectra and I want to say I've heard of them before but not seen their stuff.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

ACUDANUT

I just put a new Spectra in my 70. Looks and fits perfect.

resq302

I know the repro's appearance differs from what the original lead / tin coating had and was hoping to try and find something close to it.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

That might be something you have to try and duplicate on your own. :shruggy:

resq302

Don't know if that would even be possible due to that type of process not being used today!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

Someone must know a way to duplicate the look though.

Ghoste


resq302

The originals seemed to have a lead/tin coating which I am pretty sure is now outlawed due to EPA regulations.  I have no clue how they would even be able to duplicate it.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

You aren't after the actual coating though correct?  Just the appearance of it?

resq302

The only way I am aware of getting it to look like it did originally is to have the correct coating on it.  Similar to the fuel filler tube situation.  Once the coating is gone, there is no way to get it back.  IF there is a process out there that duplicates the look of what it did from the factory, Im sure it must be the best kept secret known to man at this point (aside from the Kennedy assassination)
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

I'll ask in our restoration shop today.  You are probably 100% correct but just in case one of those guys knows some technique then I'll pass it along.

resq302

I am going to try and get some of this dent out over the weekend hopefully.  My goal is to try and get it all out, however, I don't have my hopes up too much!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

resq302

Quote from: Ghoste on June 14, 2013, 06:36:17 AM
I'll ask in our restoration shop today.  You are probably 100% correct but just in case one of those guys knows some technique then I'll pass it along.

A big  :2thumbs:.   Thanks!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bill440rt

That tank is fubar'd, Brian. Not sure how you would get it out without altering the outside, unless you somehow pressurize it from the inside "popping" it out. Are you sure you want to fool with that? Do much danger & risk for my taste.

I'm not so sure about this lead/tin coating on tanks. I know the filler tubes had a coating. The tanks were galvanized steel.
To correct my previous post, after thinking about it the one in my '70 was NOS (this was before the fancy-schmancy gleaming repros came out). No lead coating, but it is galvanized.  :2thumbs:
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Ghoste

I've seen compressed air used to pop out dents in tanks before but I've also seen it balloon them too.

resq302

Bill, either way, I don't want that dent in the tank on our car.  So its either fix it or get new / NOS.  Since you have the best to compare, how does NOS one  compare to the repro finish /  appearance wise?
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

resq302

As for compressed air, I don't know how well that would work.  Im sure I could get a rubber plug to seal up the two large holes but this tank (unlike our chargers) has two vent nipples on the upper front driver side of the the tank.  WAY too small to put a plug in there.  I'd compare the orafice opening to that of a 1/16 drill bit hole.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Dino

You'll never get the entire dent out, the crease on the side is too sharp for it.  If it was in the center you could, after venting the tank, warm the metal with a heat gun and then use compressed air cans upside down to pop the dent out.  It's not going to work here though and to be honest I would not mess with a tank either.  The metal is going to be weaker on the edge so I'd pitch it.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

resq302

Yeh, that was my reality thinking of the situation but I figured I'd give it a try.  Like you said, the crease is WAY too sharp to ever totally get out 100% but I figured if I could get it so it was less noticeable till I found a nicer one.... eh well.   :pity:  Lets face it, I have nothing to lose by trying!   :lol:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Dino

Quote from: resq302 on June 14, 2013, 07:29:28 AM
Yeh, that was my reality thinking of the situation but I figured I'd give it a try.  Like you said, the crease is WAY too sharp to ever totally get out 100% but I figured if I could get it so it was less noticeable till I found a nicer one.... eh well.   :pity:  Lets face it, I have nothing to lose by trying!   :lol:

That's true!  You can get a vacuum suction cup and gently pull out the dent while you tap the crease with a delrin, plastic or rubber hammer.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

bill440rt

Quote from: resq302 on June 14, 2013, 07:14:37 AM
Bill, either way, I don't want that dent in the tank on our car.  So its either fix it or get new / NOS.  Since you have the best to compare, how does NOS one  compare to the repro finish /  appearance wise?

Of COURSE you don't want a dent in the tank!  :rofl:   Right. Two options: repair or replace. Since repairing it will never get all that damage out & be undetectable, you're only option is to replace it. The danger factor in repairing that tank is not something I would gamble with personally.
Believe it or not, I saw a NOS Charger tank on eBay maybe a week or two ago. Maybe you'll get lucky with a B-body tank?? Do you NEED a NOS tank??
The finish on mine is similar to the repros, has a bit more marbling to it (galvanized). The repros are sparkly shiny, but still have a galvanic coating on them. I clear all my tanks anyway, it preserves the finish and it still looks good after many years.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Ghoste

Would that marbling be consistent with a process?  That is to say, if facility "A" did it a certain way, their marbling would always look about the same whereas facility "B" does it slightly different (time in solution, temperature whatever) so theirs would look a little bit different always?