New voltage regulator. Retain capacitor?

[K9COP]

Guys, quick question. I bought the 'plug and play ' voltage regulator in the hope of curing my fuel gauge etc. While looking for a new circuit board for my cluster on Ebay, I found this cluster for sale:



It has the regulator AND the capacitor still fitted. Is that correct? My car only had the capacitor (? cylinder shaped thing with one wire) before I bought the regulator. Now it just has the regulator. Car's not back together yet.

Thanks,

CS

[resq302]

If you have a one of the solid state voltage limiters, you can do away with the condenser on the back of the instrument cluster. 

[K9COP]

That's what I figured, thank you. Was confused why the one on Ebay had both...


CS

[resq302]

You can leave it there but since the new unit is a solid state one, there is really no need for the capacitor to supress any electrical noise.

[nascarxx29]

The circuit is available in the aftermarket
http://www.premiumdashdecals.com/dash_circuit_boards.htm

[Charger-Bodie]

The circuit is available in the aftermarket
http://www.premiumdashdecals.com/dash_circuit_boards.htm

The CHarger spec one is better as it comes with a built in regulater

[K9COP]

Thanks guys. I already found the circuit board listed on Ebay here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Rallye-Dash-Cluster-CIRCUIT-BOARD-68-70-B-Body-NEW-PDD-028-/370797060147?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1969|Make%3ADodge|Model%3ACharger&hash=item56553a2033&vxp=mtr

But judging from the part number, it's the same part anyways.

Not sure I love how loose the solid state regulator fits. Solder it? Or did the guy with the ebay cluster leave the condenser (not capacitor, sorry...) on there to jam the regulator in tighter?

CS

[jlatessa]

You can tighten the females from the back with a small needlenose to get more tension
then solder them in front to the board to get the best connection.

Joe


P. S. And the five posts too as they're only mechanically clinched.

[K9COP]

Thanks Joe. I tightened up the females for the voltage regulator from the back of the board, but please read carefully my thread on almost torching the car having followed the advice to solder the back of the pins. A cautionary tale for sure. I now have TWO completely toasted wires in the loom to replace....., but still have the car to replace them on, so I was lucky.

CS

[jlatessa]

No doubt Cayman, too much of a good thing is not always better.

It's important to stop as soon as you see the solder wick in.

After you had your problems the first thing I did was to check my job,
luckily the panel was still sitting on my workbench and all was well.

Good warning though!!

Thanks,  Joe

[K9COP]

You're welcome brother. Another car saved, that's why we're here. 

Gotta change that user name... stupid f'ing place.....

CS

[nickm]

Hey Guys, I'm currently rebuilding my cluster, and had a view questions regarding K9COP's photo.

1) What are the three black "plugs" on the back side of the circuit board in that photo?  Where to buy?

2)  What is the off white bracket connected to the light switch?  Is this for the vacuum lines to the head lamps?  Where to buy?

Thanks

[K9COP]

Hey mate, welcome to the forum. The three black plugs, IIRC, are just bulb holders. I suspect they're a generic dodge part but probably other cars that use those bulbs use them. They're just a 'push and twist' bayonet fit bulb holder.

If you mean the off-white bracket with the three holes in, then yes, that's the vacuum distributor for the headlamp doors on '68 or '69 Chargers. Where to buy?
It's integral with the headlight switch. Any of the usual suspects sell them. Like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-68-69-Charger-Daytona-Headlight-Vacuum-Switch-NEW-/360417061952?hash=item53ea87ec40&vxp=mtr

Never seen just the vacuum part before, or this full switch:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-1968-69-Charger-1969-Daytona-1970-Superbird-Headlight-Switch-/400928490774?fits=Year%3A1969|Make%3ADodge|Model%3ACharger&hash=item5d59334516&vxp=mtr

May as well buy the whole thing.....

K9

[nickm]

Hey Guys,

  Thanks again for all the help; this forum has been a great resource 

  My local Dodge dealer (North County SD) told me they cannot lookup part numbers for a '69.  Does anyone know the part number for the "bayonet fit bulb holder"?

Thanks!

-  Nick

[K9COP]

Hey Guys,

  Thanks again for all the help; this forum has been a great resource 

  My local Dodge dealer (North County SD) told me they cannot lookup part numbers for a '69.  Does anyone know the part number for the "bayonet fit bulb holder"?

Thanks!

-  Nick

Here you go bud:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/131530740161?nav=SEARCH

K9

[69dc]

Along this same line of conversation, I am trying to make my fuel gauge work. If I ground the pin on the gauge that the tank ground connects to I get a full tank reading so I know the gauge is good and it's getting 5 volts from the limiter. Next I went to the tank and pulled the sender wire and grounded it and got nothing at the gauge. That tells me there is a problem in the wire between the tank and the gauge. Next I pulled the kick panel off and pulled the connector apart and grounded the side going to the gauge and got a full tank reading. So I put my ohm meter on the wire at the tank and at the connector and get a .5 resistance reading which is only .1 more than a direct connection of the ohm probes. Is that enough to indicate a problem in that wire? 

[K9COP]

Over to you, Pete in NH

K9

[69dc]

Just ran a ground wire from the battery to the tank end of the gauge wire and I got a full tank reading. That tells me that the brand new sending unit in the brand new tank with 10 gallons of brand new gas has to come out.

[K9COP]

Do a few burnouts, put the front wheels on ramps, you'll be fine.... probably....

K9

[69dc]

Does anyone know if you can pull the sender out without dropping the tank? It doesn't look like there's enough room.

[Charger-Bodie]

Jack up the body or let the rear axle hang and it helps a lot. Pretty much the only way to make it happen with a dana60 rear. Not near as bad with an 8 3/4.

[Dino]

Easier with an 8 3/4 but yes do yourself a favor and put stands under the frame and lower the axle.  Soooo much easier.   

[69dc]

Thanks for the tip. Lowered the axle and pulled the sender out. Now for the puzzle. I bench tested the sender and I get 94 ohm when the float is in the empty position and 12.4 when it is full. So I attached a ground wire to the sender directly from the negative battery cable and reconnected the sender wire to the sender and I get nothing at the gauge. But if I ground the sender wire at the tank end the gauge reads full. What am I missing here?

[K9COP]

"Thanks for the tip. Lowered the axle and pulled the sender out. Now for the puzzle. I bench tested the sender and I get 94 ohm when the float is in the empty position and 12.4 when it is full. So I attached a ground wire to the sender directly from the negative battery cable and reconnected the sender wire to the sender and I get nothing at the gauge. But if I ground the sender wire at the tank end the gauge reads full. What am I missing here?"

I'm not trying to be a d*ck (sometimes it just comes naturally to us cops) but the battery was connected at the time, right? 'cos that's not how it reads...

K9

[69dc]

Yes both battery cables were connected at the time I tested the sender. I was a cop too so dick away all you want, I can take it.