So (bleep, bleep) sick of it. Please help

[BubbaDuke]

I posted about a couple of weeks ago about my car problem (69 charger).  Here is a recap.  Last year my alternator went out.  Because it was the end of the driving season I just parked it and decided to replace it this spring.  replaced alternator, washed it and went for a spin.  On my way back home I was at a stop sign.  When I went to take off my car started to bog out, like it was missing or not getting fuel.  I was going to put a carb kit in, thinking it was that, since it idled really nice, but while running it for my dad he saw a spark coming from the wires that go from the firewall to the alternator, and things in between.  I pulled the tape off and sure enough all but maybe two wires had been fired about 2 inches.  Well  that had to be the problem.  So I took the complete wire harness from the firewall to the alternator off.  Rewired all the wires and hooked it back up just like it had been.  turned the key, and it turned over, but I cant get it to fire.  Changed coil, and still nothing.  Took harness off again and checked over everything.  Still no luck.  It has been some great weather to ride, and there this thing sits.  Please help, I really really want to put miles on it this year.

Thanks

[redmist]

did you hook up the Neutral safety switch to the starter relay?

[A383Wing]

he says it turns over, but no spark.

do you have power to ballast resistor with key on or in start? Do you have power to coil? You don't say what kind of ignition system you are running

Bryan

[BubbaDuke]

So I checked the ballast resister, and had nothing.  I also check other things and I had nothing, so I think my tester is broken.  Anyways.... I stood there about to freak out on the damn thing when I remembered that I had some old parts.  I replaced the Ballast with my old one, and the car started right up.   Awesome.  Took it for a spin and it ran like a charm.  Thanks for leading me in the right direction.  I'm still puzzled on why the wires fired and why the ballast resister went bad.  Any idea on this for future use.  Thanks again all.


Mike

[A383Wing]

it's kinda hard to diagnose electrical problem with broken testers...whenever I get my test light out or meters, I always test them on the battery posts first...that way I know tester is good and so I'm chasing my tail all over trying to find out why a certain circuit does not have power

Bryan

[68neverlate]

You said you replaced the alternator... what did you get and what is the amperage rating on it? 

[BubbaDuke]

Its pretty sad I dont know anything about the alternator I put in.  Its a cheap refurbish alternator, ran for $50 from Eversons.  I checked the volts on my battery when running and its only about 12.6. I thought it should be more 13-14 volts.  Is this right?

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Yes, with the engine running you should have 13.8 to 14.5 volts at the battery. Do you still have the original 69 mechanical relay type regulator on the car or has it been upgraded to something newer?

[BubbaDuke]

For the alternator im guess?  Yes its a newer one.  Could this be messed up to if im not getting 13-14 volts?

[resq302]

I'd first check to see if you have a good ground.  Having a bad ground could mess up the charge.   

[K9COP]

Ballast resistor? MY buddy says our cars eat these fairly often so keep one in the glove box.  CHECK YOUR BULKHEAD CONNECTOR BLOCK, VERY IMPORTANT. Research it on here for checking/upgrading procedures...

My 

CS

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Look at the back of the alternator, you will have the large output stud and one or two field wires. If you have one field wire you have the original 69 system. If you have two field wires someone has updated the system. This only applies to Chrysler alternators. One we figure out what system is in the car I can give you some troubleshooting ideas.

[BubbaDuke]

I looked on the alternator and there is 1 large stud port, and 2 field wires.  On the stud port there is a large red wire that runs to the starter relay, and a large black one that goes to the bulkhead (connects to the ignitions switch in the car).  One of the field wires is green and that goes to the alternator regulator.  Then there is a blue one on the other field port.  Its not on any of my wire diagram, so I cant say where it goes as of right now, but I could go and follow it again if you need that information. I was told to check the ground, but im not sure if that means on the alternator or battery.  Sorry I apologize, im still a novice at this stuff. 

Thanks Mike

[nascarxx29]

You got 2 field wires green and blue and your a 69 Charger.You should only have the green.Do you have the 70 type flat regulator .Or the black box type regulator

[BubbaDuke]

Its a gray box with a plug in that has 2 wires going in to it.

[nascarxx29]

Sounds like you might not have the right regulator for a 70-  2 field alt.The early regulator was a box with a screw on green field wire and a double wire push on connection.70- thru was a flat type with 2 wire molded push on connection.You can still use the 70- up alternator .You just have to ground the extra field wire thats blue

[Pete in NH]

Okay, it sounds like you may have the newer electronic regulator on the car, with the newer two field wire alternator. To make sure this is what you have there, is the regulator a 4" x4" square unit about an inch thick? Also, does it have a triangle shaped connector toward the bottom? If so this is the newer electronic regulator. Many 70's and older were upgraded to this newer system especially if electronic ignition was installed. If the system was upgraded to the newer design that is why you can't find the second field wire on your wiring diagrams. Again, lets figure out what you have on the car and I can step you through some troubleshooting.

[68neverlate]

The reason I asked about the amperage rating of the new alternator is because the wiring in these cars was only designed to handle current from the stock alternators of the day.  Stock alternators ran at about 40 amps or so depending on the options on the car (factory air had the larger alternators).  If your new alternator is 80 amps or more, you should upgrade to larger guage wiring to handle the extra current.  If you don't, the wiring may overheat and cause all kinds of issues... including a fire.       

You don't have to replace all of the wiring, just those carrying the larger electrical currents...     

[K9COP]

Agreed.

Check this link. Again.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

In fact their whole tech section is pretty cool. Also, maybe post pictures to help ID the system you have.

CS

[1974dodgecharger]

For the alternator im guess?  Yes its a newer one.  Could this be messed up to if im not getting 13-14 volts?

If u measure right away it won't be 13 plus volts drive it for 5 mins then check.  My battery reads 12.5 upon startup and she gradually goes up to 13.45 or so after 5 mins.

[mickelsdogs]

So HUSH  not grounding the neutral safety switch??   Here is where I give it all away !!!! The BEST ONLY KNOW   (SECRETS FIGURED OUT BY MEMBERS)( U B 1 NOW)   If u can come up with a BETTER  ANTI-THEFT, that was handed 2 us  by the MOPAR GODS?? By UNHOOKING 1 WIRE!!!  Well it is what it is. My radio , lites, and blinkers ALL WORK.  U sure as HELL AINT  gonna  start or STEAL  my MOPAR, N get BY me N the dog don't get u first that shot ain't warning.     NO TRESSPASSING SURVIVORS WILL B SHOT AGIN . FREE way of avioding any of the above

[A383Wing]

my head hurts now....along with my eyes

Bryan

[Back N Black]

So HUSH  not grounding the neutral safety switch??   Here is where I give it all away !!!! The BEST ONLY KNOW   (SECRETS FIGURED OUT BY MEMBERS)( U B 1 NOW)   If u can come up with a BETTER  ANTI-THEFT, that was handed 2 us  by the MOPAR GODS?? By UNHOOKING 1 WIRE!!!  Well it is what it is. My radio , lites, and blinkers ALL WORK.  U sure as HELL AINT  gonna  start or STEAL  my MOPAR, N get BY me N the dog don't get u first that shot ain't warning.     NO TRESSPASSING SURVIVORS WILL B SHOT AGIN . FREE way of avioding any of the above

Are you typing with your elbows?? 

[BubbaDuke]

Like to think all that helped me get this beast running.
Mike

[1974dodgecharger]

Thats how I wired up my setup after reading that section over and over to bypass the ammeter. 

Agreed.

Check this link. Again.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

In fact their whole tech section is pretty cool. Also, maybe post pictures to help ID the system you have.

CS