Water Pump Housing...

[Moparman01]

For years and years now i've had problems with my '69 running hot and sometimes overheating if i drive it to far. Well i pulled out the 440 that was in it and had a brand new 440 (450hp dyno'd) profesionally built last year starting from a completly different block! New motor, still heats up just like the last engine! This is a shot in the dark question i'm gonna ask but a little background first. The ONLY carry over parts from my first 440 to go on to the new 440 are 3 items, the HP exhuast manifolds, the MP electronic distributer, and the Mancini aluminum water pump housing (i have changed the pump itself 3 times, never the housing tho) that's it, everything else is new! So my question is, are there any known issues with the aftermarket aluminum pump housings?? I vaguely remember reading something about them having alignment issues, but i'm not sure. I also just spent a couple hundred bucks and had my radiator RE-re-done (Chrysler 3 row, 26"), yes it's now been done twice. I've tried everything one can think of to try to keep the motor cool, and i mean everything, 6 years now of trying different things! Also, my first 440 was run in a my buddies '68 Charger for a couple months before i put the motor in my car, it never overheated or ran hot at all, he had an electric pump on the engine however, again making me wonder if the pump housing could be bad some how, stranger things have happend right? I'm at my wits end here, i gotta figure this problem out once and for all.

(I've posted several questions regaurding my overheating issues, i'll list a few things here for reference. The car idles fine and doesn't heat up untill i put it in gear and head down the road. As i drive the temp gauges, two of them, the stocker and an aftermarket unit, steadily rise as i go. Running a 180* t-stat (i've tried many t-stats), it wil run up to 210-220* after just a few miles on a average warm day, it will get closer to 230* as i pull around my drive way and put it in the garage. Hoses are all good, have springs to keep from collapsing. It has a fan shroud, and a 7 blade fan. No heater hoses. I opened up the radiator opening for the 26" radiator. I'm sure i've tried other things but that's what i can think of off the top of my head!)

[oldcarnut]

Two good reads 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,96616.0.html

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

[charger Downunder]

Here have a look at this link four different water pumps blades go opposite way how confusing.

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/waterpumpsmopar.html

Check the water pump pulley size if you have the smaller a/c one and the 8 blade pump cavitation will occur and result in poor flow.
There was a batch of alloy housing which where restricted in flow do a search and you should find the threads.

[Moparman01]

Here have a look at this link four different water pumps blades go opposite way how confusing.

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/waterpumpsmopar.html

Check the water pump pulley size if you have the smaller a/c one and the 8 blade pump cavitation will occur and result in poor flow.
There was a batch of alloy housing which where restricted in flow do a search and you should find the threads.

Now that is interesting! But, i've swapped out the pump itself 3 times now, the first pump came with the Mancini housing and the pump together, i did try an "A/C" pump the second time, now i have just a standard pump on the motor currently, i just can't believe all 3 may have been or be set-up for a reverse rotation. I've checked the pulley size, my pump pulley is exactly the same size as the pulley on my fathers 440 'Cuda. That car, knock on wood, can handle Carlisle's typical 100*+ temps with out any hiccup what-so-ever.

[ws23rt]

Here have a look at this link four different water pumps blades go opposite way how confusing.

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/waterpumpsmopar.html

Check the water pump pulley size if you have the smaller a/c one and the 8 blade pump cavitation will occur and result in poor flow.
There was a batch of alloy housing which where restricted in flow do a search and you should find the threads.

, i just can't believe all 3 may have been or be set-up for a reverse rotation.

I don't think they are set up for either rotation. The what I will call the paddles are 90 degree bent from the flat stamped plate and 90 degrees from the axis of rotation. The angle of the stamping gives an illusion of spiral but the flat part of the stamping just slices through the water with no pumping affect. If the paddles were scoped or curved that would be different.
What is most important in the case of these four pumps is how well do they fill the cavity. And fewer smaller paddles will push less water.

[A383Wing]

the smaller vane pump is for factory AC engines....the larger vane pumps are for non-AC cars...if you use the wrong pump in the wrong application, it will overheat

Bryan 

[ws23rt]

In cooling the engine it is all about coolant flow (gpm). If it goes through the radiator too fast it can't cool as well. Too slow through the engine and engine heats up. That poor little thermostat has a tough task and sometimes can't step up.