Looking for Impressions on US Car Tool and Auto Rust Torque Boxes

[TexasStroker]

Slowly (still), but surely I'm setting up a plan of action for the Charger.  I have fully given up on XV's lower radiator support brace and will likely be making my own once I've pulled the core support (mine is roughed up and the "new" US Car Tool one wouldn't have much to weld too...plus I don't really like the design).

The plan is to pull the front end, start working on the custom lower radiator support brace, weld in the US Car Tool Inner Fender Braces (don't mind XV's, but after getting jacked around 3 years I'd rather go elsewhere), and I figured while I was at it I might as well install torque boxes.

My issue is, despite the installs, I haven't really seen a comparison or been able to formulate if there was a consensus amongst installers as to which was preferred.  I saw on the USCT site that they make their torque boxes out of 1/8" steel...I have not found specs on the ART pieces.  Similarly, getting "good" pictures is a little tough as well.

I am honestly thinking the strength and overall benefit between the two should be negligible, BUT the little things like ease of fitment for welding and how lines route around them etc. are things you appreciate while installing...especially for those of us who will be doing overhead welding from a creeper.

So, the crux of the issue is really...Has anyone here had experience with both (direct/first hand is of course best)?  If not, has anyone had the chance to see or hear of installs involving both makers?

Any input would be appreciated...Similarly, I have wondered about the ART subframe connectors...I have the MP bolt-in set that has been waiting to be installed since the late 90s, lol.  ART has a pretty good package deal for torque boxes and the subframe connectors.  Again, thanks in advance.

[cdr]

I USED THE US CAR boxes & connectors,put the connectors in 1st lots of grinding,the boxes fit GREAT very easy install.
my link is at the bottom

if you need more pics i can take some. & yes welding standing on your head is a challenge.   

[Big Sugar]

Kinda hard to give a comparison between one car and another but if your in my area stop by and you can take mine out for a run. Ive got a mix of stuff on mine . XV lower rad brace , inner fender supports, Auto Rust Tech front and rear torque boxes, rear schock crossmember and home made subframe connectors as well as a whole lot of other welding. including welding the "K" member and lower control arms , misc lap joints on the frame as well as the inner fender seams and the forward framerail seams with some additional 8 gauge along the inside of the rail.
Running a Hotchkis , Bilstein suspension with a firm feels's poly lower control spindles.
The ride is Great, firm but not juttery or noisy, could still dring a hot coffee with no worries.

Auto Rust tech stuff is HD  good fittment
XV stuff  Same
Firm Feel stuff well made'
Hotchkis   No trouble there great quality.


Ron

[TexasStroker]

cdr...good to hear...I think I am leaning towards the USCT boxes.  I heard from a body guy today that 1/8" plus will be very solid and their site lists them as just that.

Ron, thanks for the offer...I was skimming your photobucket last night and saw the video    Depending on my time frame I'll prob go in while the fenders are off and seam weld the inner fender area...At least there I can come in in line and above the are to be welded, lol.

Main thing I was looking for on the boxes was just ease of install as I honestly think they should have virtually the same impact.  After posting and looking at more pics I think that the USCT might have a slightly larger window in the rear boxes for accessing bolts...That is appreciated with big hands.

If anyone else has any insights feel free to post...I'm not locked in until the parts are here....I'll prob order within 2 weeks or so.

[Big Sugar]

I would go with who gives you the most for your money,USCT has quite a few upgrades available, but im sure Dave at ART could easily provide the same.
  Make sure your rear shock crossmember is in good shape as well .


Ron

[tan top]

 i fitted ART torque boxes &  frame / chassis connectors  went in easy , just with a bit of tweeking , before welding anything in make sure one full weight in on the suspension & car is level , or as i did , weld them in , when the charger was stripped down to a empty body shell

[TexasStroker]

Thanks tan top...doesn't help your ART pieces went in easy as well, lol. 

I did like ART's package price, but the USCT torque boxes are roughly $50 less AND I would be sourcing the inner fender braces from them as well.

I honestly haven't touched the MP Subframe connectors since I moved to the shop, but as best I remember they should be able to weld in place.  If I recall they were kind of set up to saddle the rear frame rail, so instead of drilling and bolting I would just plug weld and hit the overlap...

The front seems like it had a drilled end plate (my set was actually drilled...I'd heard from others that some of the MP bolt-in sets were not and that it was a pain to drill them).  If I'm thinking correctly it should wedge in to place and again I could just weld it up as opposed to drilling the frame and throwing the flat plate on the front side etc.

The ART connectors looked like a decent design in the performance pack picture...I think they are carried by Classic and that would mean anyone interested could eventually land them 20% off.

It'll prob be mid-June before I spring for the parts...If anyone else has any insights feel free to post up.

I've read so many different guidelines as to how to weld the subframe connectors in it is nuts and at least half of them have to be wrong...My plan is as you mentioned...get it up and level on stands (if I had a full track lift I would probably drive it on and raise it to suit). 

[fy469rtse]

I used the us car type, although break pressed my own, will post a couple photo's if I can format them to load, I like the idea of welded in, I boxed mine,i like the strength of the rhs but not the look, I put a additional top plate in mine to box them for strength, that minimised the amount of spot welds to floor pans, I also added the folded leg against floor to look factory, even drilled the frame rail drain holes so to complete factory look, like mitch I cant weld upside down , if your not completely confidant when welding , at least get in a comfortable position helps.