SRT-8 Daytona Clone

[Baldwinvette77]

OH MY GOD YES O.O 

[Stevearino]

OH MY GOD YES O.O 

Settle down.

[Swampwing2]

When I first got my car on the road I rigged up a set of fixed headlights so I could get the car drivable. The lack of light on the side of the road was definitely an issue that made me expedite putting the original style lights in it. Mine also looked a lot like a Saturn since they came out around the same time I got it on the road. Yours looks much better. Keep it up.

[Baldwinvette77]

OH MY GOD YES O.O 

Settle down.

I make no promises i can't keep 

[Lighthorseman]

OH MY GOD YES O.O 

         




   ...

[djcarguy]

  awsum nose,spoiler an drive lites and drop door..looking great, steve    DJ out west monsoons season here     

[Stevearino]

Thought with 4 days off I would make some gains but I have been helping my daughter and her husband pack to move to Nashville and get the same house ready for my son and his wife to move into. Eating turkey and chopping down some trees but no progress on the car so here are some pics of another body over job someone in Maine did with a 56 Chrysler Imperial over an SRT-8 Magnum.

Here is a link to the build.

http://www.backbaycustoms.com/project-gallery/56-imperial/

[Finn]

Great progress!  love the updates.

[500Jon]

Stunning Workmanship and very pleasing to see!

I'm sure now there's a glut of damaged SRT's and other high end Modern Mopars,
this will happen more and more!

Its the awnswer to all the rebody rows of the past and present!
No grey(gray) area's, just good old fashioned 'HOT RODDING' and 'CUSTOMISING'!!!

I CAN SEE THESE ENGINEERING MARVELS BEING WORTH AS MUCH IF NOT MORE THAN SOME ORIGINALS!

Daytona's and Superbird's probably not!

Well done to you METAL MAGICIANS............

[Stevearino]

Thanks for the enthusiasm 500Jon and Finn. To date I think since the first one done by West Coast Customs in 07 I think about 6 or 7 have been done. About 1 per year since then. Not exactly a trend sweeping the nation. I do agree that this is more akin to the old idea of hot rodding than simply bolting on high end after market parts. I was just really trying to see what I could do with that in mind.

[500Jon]

Credit where CREDIT IS DUE!!!

My 1969 Charger-500 is a Factory work of ART but,
You guys are bringing  iconic-MOPARS into the Modern ERA!!

I would love to own one of these Mechanical Marvels!
The great looks of the Golden Mopars on a 21st Century CHASSIS!

Bloody FANTASICAL!!!

[dyslexic teddybear]

I do agree that this is more akin to the old idea of hot rodding than simply bolting on high end after market parts. I was just really trying to see what I could do with that in mind.

I get the context you are using.....but this type of morphing old and new technology......goes far beyond old school hot rodding. Or at least the way I see it, swapping a newer and more powerful engine and trans into an older car.....is child's play..... to the conversion you are doing. The amount of details you[and others doing this] are dealing with, is staggering.

I agree......credit where credit is due.

[Highbanked Hauler]

   What he said..

[Stevearino]

Once again I appreciate the kind words. This can be a tough crowd so it means a lot to me.

This weekend I decided to work out the wiring to actuate the headlight doors by turning on the headlights. I have tried to draw up a simple diagram to show how I ended up working it out. I hope it can be helpful to someone else who might want to convert to electric door motors.
As you know I was content to use just one motor to operate my doors so I just purchased one rebuilt second generations Pontiac Fiero headlight door motor. Along with that I purchased a control module that only the left half worked so I got it for a good price. I also bought a standard Bosch style 5 pin relay. The diagram below shows how I ended up wiring it. It turns out to be pretty simple as the module is always hot so power is available to the motor in both the up and down modes. I picked up the power to run the relay right off of the headlight wires so that when the lights are off and the relay is in the resting position it makes contact to send power to the close mode. When the lights turn on the relay activates and swaps over to send power to the open mode. The control module senses the increased amperage draw on the motor when it hits a physical stop and cuts power to the motor in both the up and down positions.                            Clear as mud?      

[JamieZ]

Do you handle the high beams as well? I had a similar circuit in my electrical motor conversion on my 68, I connected both the high beam and low beams through diodes to feed the relay.

[Swampwing2]

You don't need anywhere near 30 amps to run the motor. It appears to be about 16 gauge wire. I can do an amp draw on mine if you want a better number but I am using both motors and lifting the original style doors with it.  I just used a single pole, double throw switch without a relay but I see you added the relay so you can use the existing switch. Makes sense.

[Stevearino]

Do you handle the high beams as well? I had a similar circuit in my electrical motor conversion on my 68, I connected both the high beam and low beams through diodes to feed the relay.

The relay actuates with the power supplied by the headlights. You know unless the headlights turn off when the highbeams  come on I don't think you need to do anything else. Since this car was wrecked in the front end when I got it I am on a journey of discovery of how that part of the wire harness works. I may need to address that.

You don't need anywhere near 30 amps to run the motor. It appears to be about 16 gauge wire. I can do an amp draw on mine if you want a better number but I am using both motors and lifting the original style doors with it.  I just used a single pole, double throw switch without a relay but I see you added the relay so you can use the existing switch. Makes sense.

The 30 amp fusable link was just something I had lying around and I wasn't sure about the amp draw. If you say 16 amps is all I need then I can switch out the fuse easily. Believe me when it comes to electrical I am no wizard. I am amazed that I was able to get this to work at all.

[djcarguy]

  X-MAS BREAK?   DJ ??OUTWEST

[Stevearino]

X-MAS BREAK?   DJ ??OUTWEST

No DJ. No Christmas break. The bad part of working on a car is there is two of everything. I worked my way down the left side of the car and posted all of that and have been playing with the nose to avoid starting on the right side. I finally got going on that but rather than post a bunch of pictures of a process you have already seen I decided to just stop posting until I had something a little more interesting to post. I estimated I had about 100 or so hours in the left side door and I am about half way through that process on the right side now. (rinse and repeat). Here are a couple of pictures of how that is going. The glass has already been fit up with the regulators. The door latch has already been cut in and the lock and door handle rods have all been modified.

[cdr]

it will all be worth the effort!!!! NO DOUBT ABOUT IT.

LOOKIN GREAT

charlie

[Stevearino]

Thank you Charlie.

Well I managed to get the door panel covered and installed. Now I have to deal with modifying and installing the wire harness, the side view mirror, fitting up the door handle to the new skin and fitting the skin to the inner door. That will keep me off the streets for a couple more weeks.

[The70RT]

Awesome 

[oldcarnut]

Turnin out great

[Stevearino]

Awesome 

Thanks man. Can't wait to see that blue and white of yours done.

Turnin out great

Thank you. How is your car coming along?

[ACUDANUT]