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What would cause this?

Started by Hemidog, May 25, 2010, 11:57:24 AM

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Hemidog

My MP aluminum master cylinder reservoir leaks in the front.
The reservoir is half-full, so I don't think the leak is caused by overfilling? I've seen this on other MP alu cylinders (Joflaig?) I complained to the seller that the caps was warped, and he sent me new ones, but that did not help   :rotz:
I can clean the reservoir, and one trip later it looks exactly the same.


Any ideas?

elacruze

Stupid question-

Is there a gasket in the front cap?
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Hemidog

Quote from: elacruze on May 25, 2010, 12:17:01 PM
Stupid question-

Is there a gasket in the front cap?

Yep, I even put a extra rubber gasket underneath the original gasket on the old cap, but it didn't help.

HOTROD

What the Hell-Dumass !

Hemidog

None that I could find, but I will check again.

But could there be something wrong with the brake system or cylinder? Seems like the cylinder squirts brake fluid underneath the front cap hard.

Hemidog

No cracks, but the caps are warped AGAIN!
I'm definitely not going with this type of MC again, does anyone else have the same master cylinder?

Rubberduck

Good to know. I considered to get me one.

Mario
ยด68 Charger, 505 by CWE, 4-speed


charger Downunder

Swap the caps around and see if it leeks out the back one.
Is the cap tightening down level it looks like its down at the front and up at the back.
[/quote]

Hemidog

Quote from: charger Downunder on May 26, 2010, 05:26:52 PM
Swap the caps around and see if it leeks out the back one.
Is the cap tightening down level it looks like its down at the front and up at the back.

The rear cap is not as warped as the front cap, and yes the caps are unevenly tightened down due to the warping.

resq302

Looks to me like you have some heat issues there.  From the looks of the master cyl core, the alluminum housing seems to have been clear coated and exposed to some serious heat causing the brownish discoloration.  I would suspect that your front master cyl. cap is getting warped from the extreme engine temps under the hood.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Hemidog

Quote from: resq302 on May 27, 2010, 06:10:25 AM
Looks to me like you have some heat issues there.  From the looks of the master cyl core, the alluminum housing seems to have been clear coated and exposed to some serious heat causing the brownish discoloration.  I would suspect that your front master cyl. cap is getting warped from the extreme engine temps under the hood.

The aluminum looked like that when it was new, and I don't think I have a heat issue under the hood.

NYCMille

Dude, I have the same issue with the Daytona. I've tried different cap, new gaskets etc... and right now I have not been able to cure it. I also run the same exact set-up on the Charger and have never had an issue.... Unfortunately I don't have an answer for you on this as I'm trying to figure it out myself.

Wicked72

What it looks likes to me is blow by. There must be excessive pressure in the reservoir. Even thou there isnt enough to reach the top, when you drive it will splash and run down. So something is causing some pressure making it blow past the gaskets.

In the pic the cap appears to be tilted as if the reservoir has expanded.
M-Massively O-Over P-Powered A-And R-Respected

charger Downunder

What would happen if you drilled a little breather hole in the top of the cap.
[/quote]

b5blue

Though I'm not familiar with that booster system I do know if the plunger for the master can't return all the way back to a home resting spot for the next stroke it will "act" like bypass, pumping fluid oddly. Is there a depth adjustment from the booster to the masters plunger?  :scratchchin: (On vacuum booster power brakes there is a rod with a nut on the end to set depth into the masters plunger.) 

Back N Black

looks like a chevy M/C, maybe try caps from a chevy dealer.  :shruggy:

elacruze

I searched the forums and found this thread, because after 2 years my M/P master cylinder started leaking from the rubber seals between the plastic reservoir and the aluminum body. I was thinking that the seals shrunk up, but more likely they just got too hot too many times. My caps don't leak, though...

Anybody have a good heat shield source for the 2-bolt master cylinders? I have a very good Aluminum fabricator locally, I may work something up and have some made.

I see now that M/P actually sells a stainless steel heat shield. <sigh>
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

firefighter3931

Quote from: elacruze on May 17, 2013, 08:44:39 PM
Anybody have a good heat shield source for the 2-bolt master cylinders? I have a very good Aluminum fabricator locally, I may work something up and have some made.

I see now that M/P actually sells a stainless steel heat shield. <sigh>



http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mascylheatsh.html
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Big Sugar

You can get one from your local Chrysler dealer, thru the Mopar Performance catolouge,  just got one ordered in and it arrived in 2 days, $35 Canadian.....may seem steep $$ but its a nice piece .


Ron



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Big Sugar

Is a replacement resevoir available ?   




Ron



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