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Gauge Reading question (Update):

Started by Captain D, May 17, 2013, 01:56:04 PM

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Captain D

Hello all,

I did a quick search but didn't see anything on this subject, but recently I had the Charger out and I noticed that all of the gauges at the same time went up for a second and then quickly dropped back down to normal  :scratchchin:. The car didn't run any different - just the gauges changed for a sec. I was heading over the garage anyhow so I asked the shop and they said that it was nothing to worry about in that the wiring harness up under the dash being dated perhaps there was a fluke. But, I just thought that I would double-check here to see if anyone has ever had this happen to them. This is the second time it has done it in the past week or so, so I thought that I would post.

Thank you for any and all replies,
Aaron

JB400

Does this happen when you first turn the key on or while the car is running?

RECHRGD

It's the instrument voltage regulator.  Someone makes electronic ones now.  Replace before you burn up your gauges...
13.53 @ 105.32

RECHRGD

It' s located in the back of the gauge cluster.  It is a three prong plug in thingy that you need two wrists and four elbows to get to unless you pull the cluster....
13.53 @ 105.32

vick79

Sounds like voltage reg.

Replace it with one from these guys, never look back.

http://rt-eng.com/rte/index.php/Main_Page
'70 Charger RT

A383Wing

Quote from: RECHRGD on May 17, 2013, 04:03:59 PM
It's the instrument voltage regulator.  Someone makes electronic ones now.  Replace before you burn up your gauges...

yup

if it does this enough times, the magic-smoke gets let out of the gauges and it's very expensive to get it all back in

Captain D

Wow, I'm 'super glad' that I posted about this issue since my cluster gauges are all new and I wouldn't want to fry them...

It doesn't happen at initial start-up - I only noticed it twice while actually driving at a steady cruise. It happened today when I came to a stop sign and I had no idea what could be the problem other than perhaps a ground wire was getting a poor connection. This sucks, the day before a big car show and a lot of people were counting on me to be there. But, I value my gauges (and the $$ involved to repair them) so its worth keeping the car off the road til' it's fixed right.

Thank you for the replies and link gents. I love this site - you guys saved my butt yet again with this Charger. To be honest, I pulled my cluster out over the winter to swap out the bezels and I don't recall exactly where this instrument voltage regulator could be located at. With it being tight behind there, where should I look to find this regulator? Also, in the link, they posted IVR4 Limiters and IVR3 Limiters (if these are what I am in need of). Since I've never dealt with anything like this before, which of these are correct or best to use on our B-Body cars? I'm unsure if this is relevant or not, but I have a 75 amp alternator and 60 amp voltage regulator in the engine bay/firewall.

Thank you again and, in the meantime, I'll look up behind the cluster to see what I can find out tomorrow.
Best regards,
Aaron






Pete in NH

Hi,

As others have said it looks like your instrument voltage regulator is beginning to stick closed at times. It's an electro-mechanical device with contact points, a heater and a bi-metal strip. When they stick permanently closed they fry your gauges. From the RTE listings, you need the IVR-4 if your car is the 69 Charger you have on your avatar.

A383Wing

I would reach up behind the dash and unplug it before it does fry the gauges.

Captain D

Thanks guys,  :cheers:

I will 'definitely' replace this regulator, no doubt about that - 'thank you' for helping to save my gauges.

I also did a search locally for this part (just in case one would be faulty it would be easy to take back, return, exchange, etc...) and I was able to find a few choices at Advance Auto and Auto Zone. Below are the links - do you feel that these are just as good? I put in my year, make, and model for my base 69' Charger, 383 4 brrl:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_instrument-cluster-voltage-regulator-bwd_3040151-p?searchTerm=instrument+voltage+regulator

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_instrument-cluster-voltage-regulator-wells-vehicle-electronics_10301657-p?searchTerm=instrument+voltage+regulator

And, one from Auto Zone (which appears to be the same in the second link from Advance Auto):

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Instrument-Cluster-Voltage-Regula/1969-Dodge-Charger/_/N-iqxotZ9cjr5?itemIdentifier=77255_0_0_

Thank you again for your time and I look forward to making a purchase as soon as we can zero in on which to buy.
High regards,
Aaron

vick79

I feel ignored.   :shruggy:

I posted you the link to the best voltage limiter replacement.

'70 Charger RT

Captain D

To Vick79 - It certainly wasn't out to make you feel ignored. If so, I apologize. Not knowing how one was 'better than the other,' it was simply to see how comparable these regulators are to one another...

Thank you again  :2thumbs:,
Aaron

Captain D

After learning more about the R.T.E brand, I can certainly see why it would be better to go that extra mile for peace of mind in order to help save the gauges.

I went ahead and placed an order for the IVR-4 from R.T.E and I'm looking forward to receiving it before I even start the vehicle hands-down. A big 'thank you' to Vick79, Brian, and everyone else for posting and for the guidance in helping to save my gauges - I'm truly grateful for you guys!  :cheers: Without your responses, my gauges would have been toast. With that being said, I'm so glad that I sought out a second opinion on here rather to rely solely on the local garage.

I pulled the old one from my cluster and it wasn't too bad to get to. Though it was a little tight, it was cool that I didn't have to loosen anything or remove the cluster altogether in order to get to it,  ;).

Highest regards,
Aaron

vick79

Quote from: Captain D on May 18, 2013, 11:57:32 AM
To Vick79 - It certainly wasn't out to make you feel ignored. If so, I apologize. Not knowing how one was 'better than the other,' it was simply to see how comparable these regulators are to one another...

Thank you again  :2thumbs:,
Aaron

Lol wasnt offended, was kidding around. Came off a lol serious I guess. 

:2thumbs:

'70 Charger RT

Captain D

No worries, bro - its all good!  :2thumbs:

Thank you again for chiming in under my thread, my gauges thank you,  :cheers:

Best,
Aaron

Captain D

Got the VR-4 from R.T.E. in today and had two dumb questions to ask:

I've never swapped one of these out before and my dad and I were curious to see if we could double-check something if we could please:

1.) Does the limiter actually sit flush against the cluster itself? My dad thinks that it should, but I feel that it doesn't (otherwise it would hit the mounting screw and the prongs can't go in any deeper) and the middle prong simply holds in the wire that runs from the round cylinder off to the side, is that correct?

2.) Since my cluster is out, and I'm replacing the limiter, do you feel that I should also replace the round cylinder and wire (that connects to the limiter) as well?

Thank you for your time and for allowing us to double-check with you,
Best regards,
Aaron

resq302

Aaron,

I will have to check my charger and see if the voltage limiter sits flush up against it.  From what I recall it is close but not sitting flat up against it.

As for the cylindrical metal tube and wire, that is the condensor.  You will not need that with the new voltage regulator since it is transistorized.  You can leave it in there if you wish or take it out as it is not necessary.

Brian
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Captain D

Thanks man for your reply!

When I was staring at the back of my cluster, I noticed that the wire that feeds into the middle prong wasn't crimped/pinched from where the old one sat - which made me think that the limiter doesn't sit flush (but I could be wrong).

Thanks for double-checking your Charger and answering my other questions before I reinstall the cluster,   :2thumbs:

High regards,
Aaron

resq302

Just double checked my car.  The voltage limiter does NOT sit flush up against the printed circuit board.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

A383Wing

Quote from: resq302 on May 25, 2013, 11:32:12 AM
Just double checked my car.  The voltage limiter does NOT sit flush up against the printed circuit board.

neither does mine

Just 6T9 CHGR

And by the looks of it it cant be swapped with the cluster fully installed.  There is a wiring retainer bracket directly behind it.....
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


A383Wing

I have changed mine with dash installed..granted, it was a bitch..but it can be done

Bryan

resq302

Quote from: A383Wing on May 26, 2013, 10:23:45 AM
I have changed mine with dash installed..granted, it was a bitch..but it can be done

Bryan


I agree.  I have done mine with the cluster still installed.  Wasn't easy by far but sure beats pulling the entire cluster out too!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Captain D

Hey y'all,

I managed to drop the cluster back in late last night and do a test run today. Everything seems to be holding good w/ no more needle spikes in the gauges with the new RTE limiter, knock on wood!   :2thumbs: There was a local car show today, but I didn't get it all done til' later but there is another one next Sunday,  ;).

I agree, the limiter on mine at least can be reached without removing the cluster - I was able to get a good visual on that area by removing the steering column bracket (the trim piece directly under the steering column that is held in place with 4 screws). I ended up removing mine simply because I was getting hot over the limiter not going in 'all the way' and wanting to get a better look at why it wasn't. Once I pulled the cluster, and everyone on here who confirmed this, we saw that it isn't supposed to sit flush against the circuit board in the first place, lol  :brickwall:.  :icon_smile_wink: Oh well, what can I say other than lesson learned for future references...

But - many 'thank yous' to everyone again for helping to steer this rookie on the right track throughout this fix!  :cheers:
High regards,
Aaron