new distributor vs. rebuild

[Hard Charger]

changing my ignition to electronic.

is it better to rebuild the original and install the electronic module in it or just go ahead and buy a new Mopar performance model with the separate firewall box??

[firefighter3931]

changing my ignition to electronic.

is it better to rebuild the original and install the electronic module in it or just go ahead and buy a new Mopar performance model with the separate firewall box??

I wouldn't bother with an original distributor rebuild unless you install a new shaft and re-bush the housing. They are allways sloppy after years of use. 

If you don't want to use an external box there is allways the option of running a Firecore ready-to-run Distributor which has the ECU built in. With this installation you can also eliminate the Ballist resistor and using the matching coil you supply a constant 12V to the ignition system for improved spark and performance.

The ready to run unit is very easy to adjust when it comes time to modify your timing curve (mechanical advance) 


Ron

[Cooter]

MSD and the stock, OEM, distributor has ALWAYS worked well for me. I just order a "Re-man" one from the local auto parts store.

CAUTION! Many of the re-man units from the local auto parts store have WAYYY too much timing built in the "T" bar for the mechanical weights. Many I've seen run almost 20-25 Degrees in mech. advance alone. Couple that with the 15 or so degrees in Vacuum adv. and 10-17 Degrees at the crank in base timing and you have a pre-ignition problem. Always check your total timing regardless.

[b5blue]

  I've had horrible experience with A1-Cardone reman dizzys. Over the years many curves changed and parts get tired/worn, A1 is sloppy, they just clean and slap back together mixed up parts, no real rebuild/calibration, one had 1/8" slop in the bushing, it could actually hit the Hall Effect pickup. Just steer clear of anything A1-Cardone!

[resq302]

  I've had horrible experience with A1-Cardone reman dizzys. Over the years many curves changed and parts get tired/worn, A1 is sloppy, they just clean and slap back together mixed up parts, no real rebuild/calibration, one had 1/8" slop in the bushing, it could actually hit the Hall Effect pickup. Just steer clear of anything A1-Cardone!

I agree.  Cardone stuff = Car - done!  or Car-don't!  The stuff I had from them over the years would last about a maximum of 3 months.  After the last fiasco, I vowed never again unless it was the only one I could get and then I would still have that core sent out to a reputable shop to have rebuilt!

[Cooter]

Agreed, although, I get my junk from NAPA. I DID have to swap out the "T" plate with one from an earlier points one.

[1BAD68]

for what it's worth
I just installed a Cardone distributor in my 318 this morning to replace my original worn out unit. Bought at Autozone for $37.00
Swapped in my Pertronix Ignitor from the old one and it fired right up. Set the timing and noticed the engine ran much smoother than before and the timing was steady (it used to drift a lot)

[resq302]

give it time!   

[ACUDANUT]

Man what a bunch of haters here.  I use Cardone rebuilt things and 95 percent of it still works. 

[1BAD68]

give it time!   

yup I kind of have no choice.
But before I installed it I checked it out closely and it looks completely rebuilt.
The shaft bushing was nice and tight, it has new springs and like I said, the timing is solid and doesn't wander. I guess I'll just wait and see.

[Chryco Psycho]

Or you can go to a new fully adjustable Moper dist from Mancini & use the Rev-N-Ator ECU

[71 SE3834V]

Wow! What timing!
I've been fighting w/dist problems for awhile. The dwell on the original one would change a bit at increased rpm's so I thought "what the heck, I'll throw in a Cardone one". First one I looked at, at Oreillys, the breaker plate wasn't mounted right. They couldn't get another for awhile. 2nd one at Autozone, the points weren't aligned right. Picked one up at Auto Advance. It had just about as much slop in the shaft as my original. After 1 winter it was rusted. Swap it for another. Points not aligned right in that one but I dealt w/it. Haven't been able to get the car to run right since. Found out the grease on the points rubbing block disappeared and the block wore down. That at least explained the dwell steadily increasing all the time!
Haven't had much time to work on it so just now I've swapped back to my original....

[Hard Charger]

is there a service that takes yours and rebuilds it?

[resq302]

The do sometimes.  I know on Rock Auto.com they say you have to send them yours and they will rebuild it as there are no cores around for the disc brake calipers for the 66-69  B bodys.

[lexxman]

I'm reading this thread and its good timing(no joke intended). I'm rebuilding my 383 and I was thinking about what to do with the distributor. What kind of cost is in valved with changing over to electronic. I'm going for a stock look under the hood,I'm not sure witch way to go.

[Hard Charger]

mopar distributors have been discontinued, i guess they did not make them any way. mopar will still be making the box's though.

[ACUDANUT]

I'm reading this thread and its good timing(no joke intended). I'm rebuilding my 383 and I was thinking about what to do with the distributor. What kind of cost is in valved with changing over to electronic. I'm going for a stock look under the hood,I'm not sure witch way to go.

I'd go the Mopar ECU route. You can still get the "package" from Summit and Jegs.