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Carb problem?

Started by RECHRGD, May 07, 2013, 08:41:03 AM

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RECHRGD

At the end of last season the car started to occasionally seem to just die for a split second and then just carry on like nothing happened.  I replaced the module in the unilite distributor, as that is a symptom of trouble there.  I took the car out for it's first drive of the year last week and it ran great.  On Sunday I cruised to a couple of car shows and the hesitation happened a few times.  When I got caught In stop and go traffic for awhile, the car actually died, like it was running out of gas.  It started right back up and seemed fine.  The day was warmer than on the previous drive and being in traffic raised the engine temp somewhat, but by no means was it overheating.  The engine is a mild built 440 with a RPM intake and Holley 750 DP and Proform main body.  Any ideas?  Thanks, Bob
13.53 @ 105.32

Chryco Psycho

To me it would seem unlikely that it is a carb problem unless it always happens as you start to open the throttle , if it si idling steady or running at a consistant throttle position when it does it I would think it is an electric problem

RECHRGD

Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 07, 2013, 09:02:38 AM
To me it would seem unlikely that it is a carb problem unless it always happens as you start to open the throttle , if it si idling steady or running at a consistant throttle position when it does it I would think it is an electric problem

Thanks Neil!  I agree, but I know that sometimes electrical and fuel problems can mirror themselves.  I'll have to start digging deeper into it, as now I don't trust that the car won't breakdown on me......
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Cooter

Don't like the distibutors that keep the modules inside them where the heat is. Today's parts won't seem to last too long.

Also, how is your coil wired? Is it a "Resistor" type coil, or One that runs on higher voltage? I hadda guy last cruise night wired up 12 volts straight to his coil that wasn't designed for it and kept buring out coils. Touched it while running for spit second and was crazy hot to the touch.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

RECHRGD

Quote from: Cooter on May 07, 2013, 11:40:25 AM
Don't like the distibutors that keep the modules inside them where the heat is. Today's parts won't seem to last too long.

Also, how is your coil wired? Is it a "Resistor" type coil, or One that runs on higher voltage? I hadda guy last cruise night wired up 12 volts straight to his coil that wasn't designed for it and kept buring out coils. Touched it while running for spit second and was crazy hot to the touch.

It's an Accell coil and the ballast resistor is still in the circuit.  I've had two of them go bad in the last 12 years.  I'll throw a new one on, couldn't hurt.  Thanks.....
13.53 @ 105.32

firefighter3931

Bob, where do you have the coil mounted ?  Inner fender or intake manifold ?  :scope:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Just 6T9 CHGR

Also check the bulkhead connector for any wires melted through the plastic & touching each other causing a short :Twocents:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


RECHRGD

Thanks guys!  Ron, it's mounted on the intake so maybe it get cooked there?
13.53 @ 105.32

62 Max

All B engines had them mounted on the intake,shouldn't be a problem ! :scratchchin:

RECHRGD

Well, I threw on a new coil today and went for a drive.  After it was nice and warmed up it burped once at low rpm and once while idling through a parking lot.  Tomorrow I'll go back to where I store the car and start checking connections and test the Unilite module.....
13.53 @ 105.32

A383Wing

how's yer fuel pump push rod?

RECHRGD

I went back to the storage place this afternoon and I may have found the problem.  I pulled the three wiring harness plugs off of the bulkhead connector.  The middle one (engine harness) was very hard to get off.  While fighting with it the brown ballast/coil wire just came out of it's terminal.  The wire was shiny copper with no evidence of arching or anything, so I may have just pulled it out by mistake.  This is a harness that I bought from Year One probably ten years ago.  Were these wires soldered to the terminals or crimped?  I can't seem to get the terminal out of the housing to reconnect the wire.  Is there some trick to that.?  Now the reason why the plug was so hard to get off; it seems that the terminal for the large black wire from the alternator has overheated and discolored, so it was kind of stuck.  That's another story so I'll post that in the electrical section....
13.53 @ 105.32

firefighter3931

Quote from: RECHRGD on May 08, 2013, 03:44:37 PM
Ron, it's mounted on the intake so maybe it get cooked there?

I've seen a few cooked coils over the years and nowadays most coil manufacturers recommend that their coil be mounted vertically which seems odd being that most came from the factory mounted horizontally on the intake manifold. If i had to use one in the stock location the MSD epoxy filled blaster coil is a good choice.  :2thumbs:

It appears that your issue is related to an electrical gremlin so hopefully a good solder lob on that bulkhead terminal corrects the intermittent hickup.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

RECHRGD

Thanks Ron.  Have you ever tried to get a terminal out of the harness plug housing?  I can't seem to find the trick....
13.53 @ 105.32

RECHRGD

I just tore into my original harness and there is no way to get the terminals out of the housing.  There are four prongs on the terminal that allows them to go in but prevents their removal.  I guess it's time for a new harness. :brickwall:
13.53 @ 105.32

RECHRGD

Google is a good thing.  There's a special tool that gets them out, but good luck finding one in Spokane.  NAPA had the terminals though......
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A383Wing

what terminal are you talking about?

Bryan

Budnicks

Quote from: RECHRGD on May 10, 2013, 05:27:17 PM
Google is a good thing.  There's a special tool that gets them out, but good luck finding one in Spokane.  NAPA had the terminals though......
Maybe Radio Shack has one, for electronics connectors, there's a tool to get out pins/connectors, it goes over & pushes down on the little barbs, hat hold them from coming back out & for use on the old female connectors on old 9 & 25 pin computer/printer cables etc... not sure they are the same,  but it might be worth a shot... before or when you put the harness connections plug back, make sure to clean all the connection very well, a brass wire brush &/or pipe cleaners, work well, then spray electrical cleaner to get all the debri out & on make sure to put a small dab of dielectric grease on "each connection" to help with contact & stave off, moisture heat & corrosion issues... good luck
"fill your library before you fill your garage"   Budnicks

RECHRGD

Thanks guys!  The terminal is called a Delphi Packard 56 style.......
13.53 @ 105.32

A383Wing

Quote from: RECHRGD on May 10, 2013, 06:00:50 PM
Thanks guys!  The terminal is called a Delphi Packard 56 style.......

if it's the male terminal you are talking about, all it takes is a small screwdriver to move tab to one side and then pull it out.

Bryan

RECHRGD

Quote from: A383Wing on May 10, 2013, 07:15:01 PM
Quote from: RECHRGD on May 10, 2013, 06:00:50 PM
Thanks guys!  The terminal is called a Delphi Packard 56 style.......

if it's the male terminal you are talking about, all it takes is a small screwdriver to move tab to one side and then pull it out.

Bryan


Thanks!  I'll try that tomorrow on the original harness........
13.53 @ 105.32

A383Wing

here is a pic of what terminal looks like

Bryan

Voss

Quote from: A383Wing on May 10, 2013, 08:25:10 PM
here is a pic of what terminal looks like

Bryan


You can use a small screw driver or a piece of welding wire to press back the tab.  Replacing the terminal and do a correct crimp is another story. To crimp these you need a special tool. I have tried a few standard tools but the small tabs just seems to "thick" to be easily crimped. The female connector is ok, but the male terminal is a pain.

Voss

Btw, I had a similar stumbling problem when I bought my Charger. I didn't know the history of my car so I replaced all plugs, plug wiring and the fuel filter (car did not have the original carb/fuel setup, someone ditched the vapor separator and installed a fuel filter between pump and carb). It never stalled since. If the problem isn't in the electrical I would check for condensation, water and dirt in carb/filter.  :popcrn:

A383Wing

Quote from: Voss on May 11, 2013, 03:33:36 AM


You can use a small screw driver or a piece of welding wire to press back the tab.  Replacing the terminal and do a correct crimp is another story. To crimp these you need a special tool. I have tried a few standard tools but the small tabs just seems to "thick" to be easily crimped. The female connector is ok, but the male terminal is a pain.


yea..I have purchased the correct crimping tool for these T56 terminals....it's what I use to build my upgraded relay set harness's for the 66-67 Chargers

Bryan