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A/C heater firewall water valve - capillary tube

Started by VegasCharger, May 13, 2017, 08:05:29 PM

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VegasCharger

Hello, I'm helping a friend who is trying to remove his water valve from the firewall. I informed about the slider cable and the capillary tube on the dash side of the valve that those would be obstacles to overcome to remove the valve from the firewall. He was able to remove the temp control cable but the capillary tube is still present.

My question is what's involved removing this tube w/o doing any damage to it? Do you have to tear into the A/C heater box to do so? My fear if he pulls on it that it will break. I told him to hold off to see if I could find any info on this.

1st pic shows the valve unscrewed from the firewall and the temp control cable already removed. This is a 4 door parts car and the rodents have taken over lol.

2nd pic is one of my water valve I used to own showing the severed copper tubing in which I'm trying for my friend to avoid.

Thanks in advance.  :cheers: :cheers:

Bronzedodge

It's not too hard to do.  Look at the bottom of the heater box inside the car.  On the passengers side, just above and to the right of the center.  You should see an oval plate, held with two screws and the end of the capillary tube enters with a relief in the oval cover for that.  Remove it and carefully feed it back through.  Way easier if the glovebox liner is out.

You don't really need it.  It's supposed to open the valve if the discharge air temp drops into the low 30's.  Only a problem if you run straight water, and no antifreeze.  Ranco (the folks that made various HVAC controls, including the H 10 valve)  has been bought and sold a few times since then.
Mopar forever!

VegasCharger

Quote from: Bronzedodge on May 13, 2017, 09:21:59 PM
It's not too hard to do.  Look at the bottom of the heater box inside the car.  On the passengers side, just above and to the right of the center.  You should see an oval plate, held with two screws and the end of the capillary tube enters with a relief in the oval cover for that.  Remove it and carefully feed it back through.  Way easier if the glovebox liner is out.

You don't really need it.  It's supposed to open the valve if the discharge air temp drops into the low 30's.  Only a problem if you run straight water, and no antifreeze.  Ranco (the folks that made various HVAC controls, including the H 10 valve)  has been bought and sold a few times since then.

Thanks Bronzedodge. Okay I was able to source out another AC heater box for pics. I needed to do this to ask another question. This particular box is already out of the car and it too did not have the capillary tube in place when the AC box was removed. In my last pic you'll see a red arrow pointing to what I think (from your description) is where the cap. tube is inserted. Is this correct? Seems to be the only logical place for it.

Thanks again for your help.  :cheers:


Just 6T9 CHGR

That is correct...the end of the tube gets inserted into that slot in the box
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Bronzedodge

X2   :2thumbs:

The H 10 valve was used in..Studebakers and ...Volvos?  If you happen to see one for something else, sometimes you can swap to the B body mounting plate.  But they're all getting scarce.
Mopar forever!

VegasCharger

Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on May 14, 2017, 07:48:53 AM
That is correct...the end of the tube gets inserted into that slot in the box

Thanks  :2thumbs:

Quote from: Bronzedodge on May 15, 2017, 09:50:07 PM
X2   :2thumbs:

The H 10 valve was used in..Studebakers and ...Volvos?  If you happen to see one for something else, sometimes you can swap to the B body mounting plate.  But they're all getting scarce.

Thanks  :cheers: