New project...Pro Street Daytona clone

[Indygenerallee]

Anymore progress Larry? Get ta postin'!!!!

[hotrod98]

I've been ordering parts and making plans. I'm waiting on a spot to open up in my shop. My storage building is full and I have no place to move my 71 Cuda drag car to. The spot where the cuda is at the moment is my spot that I reserve for myself and that's where the Daytona clone will go. The cuda needs to come off of the fixture so that the charger can go on. I'm going to remove the quarter panels that are tacked on and replace the inner wheelhouses. The previous owner installed outers but left the inners alone and they have patches. I don't like patches. I'll widen the inner wheelhouses slightly when I install them. Looks like the wing won't be ready for another three months or so and Howie is going to bring the steel nose when he brings his barracuda down in a week or so.
I did end up finding some better doors for the clone. The latches openings were stress cracked severely and that's a difficult area to repair.
I may have ran into a problem trying to use the 727. The 6.4's don't have a cable of any type to use to make the kickdown work. I may just go ahead and spend the cash to get a five or six speed setup after all. The drive by wire setups cause issues when trying to blend old school and new school.

Here's a pic of the fixture where I need to put my clone project to start working on it.

[Indygenerallee]

Yep, only way those guy's with the new Hemi's get the 727 to work is in a carb application. You getting a Hotwireauto harness?

[moparstuart]

my buddy matt is running a 5.7  injected with a 727 tranny

[hotrod98]

Yep, only way those guy's with the new Hemi's get the 727 to work is in a carb application. You getting a Hotwireauto harness?

An acquaintance of mine, Tony Squire, owns Hotwire. They're south of here in Mena, Arkansas. I talked to Chris and he said that they would alter the harness that came with my 6.4 and send the ECM to someone to have it reprogrammed. They don't do much with the 6.4's.
The 6.4 is totally different from the 5.7 and the 6.1.
I don't want to use carbs. That would sort of defeat the purpose of buying the 6.4. I have a new 5.7 that I could have used but really wanted something with much more horsepower.
I'll probably put 6.1 heads on the 5.7 and use a six pack modman intake with a set of 340 six pack carbs that I have. That setup will eventually go into one of my cudas.

[cdr]

you can hook the trans cable, i.e. lokar cable to the accelerator pedal to control the trans! just gotta do a little engineering.

[moparstuart]

you can hook the trans cable, i.e. lokar cable to the accelerator pedal to control the trans! just gotta do a little engineering.

 yup here is what my buddy did

    I used a lo-kar (?) kick down cable. I attached the one end to the kick down lever on the tranny with the supplied bracket. Ran the other end inside and attached it to the gas peddle. I know, sounds strange, but that was under the advice of Street & Performance. It works. Not so well on the first try, but after another little more aggressive adjustment, it works fine now.



To be more specific, on the gas peddle there is a black plastic plug that fills the hole up where the head of the gas peddle cable fits through then slides down into it's slot. Pull that plug, run the kick down cable through that hole and put the set screw thing in place. I had set the tension on the cable according to the directions, but I wasn't getting kick down. The last adjustment that made it want to down shift right seemed to have more tension or pre-load on that cable.

[Dave Kanofsky]

you can hook the trans cable, i.e. lokar cable to the accelerator pedal to control the trans! just gotta do a little engineering.

  yup here is what my buddy did

     I used a lo-kar (?) kick down cable. I attached the one end to the kick down lever on the tranny with the supplied bracket. Ran the other end inside and attached it to the gas peddle. I know, sounds strange, but that was under the advice of Street & Performance. It works. Not so well on the first try, but after another little more aggressive adjustment, it works fine now.



To be more specific, on the gas peddle there is a black plastic plug that fills the hole up where the head of the gas peddle cable fits through then slides down into it's slot. Pull that plug, run the kick down cable through that hole and put the set screw thing in place. I had set the tension on the cable according to the directions, but I wasn't getting kick down. The last adjustment that made it want to down shift right seemed to have more tension or pre-load on that cable.

That is very clever.

[Indygenerallee]

That is a pretty slick method!! Guess there is always another way to skin a cat.

[hotrod98]

But the 6.4 hemi doesn't use a mechanical style gas pedal. It uses an electronic potentiometer style pedal. You can't hook anything to that type of pedal.
What you can do though is hook a dummy kickdown cable up to the tranny to adjust it to where the tranny will shift properly. It just won't down shift. 

[Indygenerallee]

Larry, my 5.7 Hemi also uses the electronic drive by wire pedal, I figured the 6.4 would have the same setup as a 5.7 and 6.1, Dodge used the same pedal on the Cummins as well.

[Cooter]

With all this techno BS, one would think it would have been assumed one would have come up with some sort of Variable Mech/electrical hybrid solenoid to opperate the kickdown using the DBW harness/computer. I do this with a solenoid using a remote starter on Christine to rev the rear carb. Ok, I laid out the basics, one of you Electronics/Mechanical engineer Guru's come up with the rest....Your welcome.

[hotrod98]

Howie brought my steel nose down this past weekend for my Daytona project. Seems like a shame to cut it up for my shortened version of a Daytona.  Looking forward to mocking it up in the near future.

[A383Wing]

Here's the shortened version of mine

Bryan

[Stevearino]

Will you be shortening just the nose or taking the larger piece out of the fenders? Also will you be lowering the wing like they did on the Fast and Furious deal?

[Indygenerallee]

Looks nice Larry!!!   

[djcarguy]

383 wing is that on a fait or scion platform.lol



    why cut the nose cant ya take 4-8 inch out of the way too long 70 fenders???    i  like a shorter nose look from the direct side view. but i cant see ya ganing much by cutting the nose an may ruin the look???

[hotrod98]

Will you be shortening just the nose or taking the larger piece out of the fenders? Also will you be lowering the wing like they did on the Fast and Furious deal?

There will be almost a foot taken out of the fenders and a few inches taken out of the nose. I think I'll leave the wing alone. Dane's wings are just too nice to start chopping up.

[Stevearino]

 

Will you be shortening just the nose or taking the larger piece out of the fenders? Also will you be lowering the wing like they did on the Fast and Furious deal?

There will be almost a foot taken out of the fenders and a few inches taken out of the nose. I think I'll leave the wing alone. Dane's wings are just too nice to start chopping up.

[Lighthorseman]

Bryan - Love the "Smartona"!!

[A383Wing]

Bryan - Love the "Smartona"!!

I got the rest of our cars done that way as well...both 66's, the Pontiac, even the little dart we had, the Dakota, & the wife's PT Cruiser

Bryan

[Mike DC]

              
IMHO the rear wing on the F&F movie car Daytona was perfect.
           
The front nose was a bit too high/short.  Maybe they took a bit too much out of the fenders (but only a bit).  IMHO they should have mounted the nose a little lower in relation to the rest of the front clip.  


           
Lowering the whole front end (changing the ride height/stance, not reshaping the body) farther would have looked great on those F&F Daytonas.  But it would have caused dangerous ground clearance problems.  The old NASCAR race teams got that stance by hacking their unibodies to shreds.  

[hotrod98]

We plan to make a copy of the nose from card stock first and then play around with it to decided how much to remove from the fenders. It's easy to remove sheet metal. Not so easy to put it back on.

[Mike DC]

Yeah that's the smart way.  Cut cardboard first, then metal. 

IMHO it may help to spray paint the cardboard mock-up stuff to match the rest of the car, depending on the situation.  A big color difference can make things appear different than they look when everything is similar shades. 


I'm also a big fan of photoshopping stuff to experiment too.   Although it has limitations.  It can be deceptive if you only use one pic from one angle to experiment with.  Stuff can look a bit different in person compared to a small flat 2D image.  


----------------------

As for the nose - When you take a section out of the fenders and then try to mate the stock Daytona nose back onto it, something has to give.  If the top surface of the nose stays fitting correctly with the tops of the fenders and the hood, then the bottom of the nose has to be too high up to fit the bottoms of the fenders.  Thus, the nosecone ends up riding slightly higher off the ground than stock overall.  

I think the F&F Daytona's front end was done that way.  IMHO they should have pie-cut the sides of the fenders and tapered the top surface of the fenders down a little bit to put the nose back near the stock height.  This operation also demands lowering the leading edge of the hood, which probably means lowering the upper radiator support a bit . . . custom bodywork gets involved pretty fast.  

[hotrod98]

One problem that I will have in shortening the fenders is the fact that the nose will need to be taller. I also have to decide whether to keep the original shape of the front hood edge or make it straight across when I shorten it. There won't be much room for a latch tray either.  Gonna be interesting.