5years and still in the garage, and ready to finish

[miller time]

so my 1969 Dodge Charger R/T SE 440 8 3/4 rear with 3.55 suregrip (bought when i was 15 and now 20) its not my dads car, wish it was, it would be done LOL, but the body work was started and currently waiting, the 727 was rebuilt, interior engine bay and underside all paint metallic gun metal grey. drilled and cross slotted front disc brakes, i have all glass and body panels except lower front cowl, have 2 grills most of interior, lights, wiring, gas tank true dual 3in exhaust

Motor (currently at machine shop)
1968 440
punched .030 over
287 297 cam .454 dur variable lifters
440 source platinum series pistons and rods
total seal gapless 2nd rings
inline 2x4 intake
soon to get 440 source aluminum heads
push rods
and more

so its been sitting for a while, as i built a custom jeep (motor trans 1 ton rear 10in lift ect) fixed and sold another jeep, bought a 4x4 mule, been working and going to school and been lazy, SO
to the point
the car needs body work and to be put together
im building the motor right now
what would you do if you were me? where would you start and then what would you do?
NOT BODYWORK im not touching body work or talking about it, so ill bring it up when its time
i havent been on since 09 so dont be shy

[JB400]

I'd do inventory of all your parts and at least get your vendors located for the parts you need.  Then, I'd get the body solid while the block is getting machined.

[C_stripes]

Welcome back. I remember this car from a long time ago. Can't wait to see updated pics.

[miller time]

I'm trying to avoid body work, body work is the sole reason i havent finished the car so I'm going for anything else, and i have a really good idea of what i have and can easily second check (first priority is the other +/-$1500 for my 440)
when my garage doesn't look like a drove my truck threw it i will take some new pictures for sure! thanks for the welcome back

[fy469rtse]

I'm trying to avoid body work, body work is the sole reason i havent finished the car so I'm going for anything else, and i have a really good idea of what i have and can easily second check (first priority is the other +/-$1500 for my 440)
when my garage doesn't look like a drove my truck threw it i will take some new pictures for sure! thanks for the welcome back

keep at it, go edelbrock rpm heads, you won't regret spending the extra $

[areibel]

I guess I think the opposite way- I'd rather get the body done first and be able to drive the thing than to build a motor and leave it sit while the body waits.  Personally I'd get the body work finished, drop in anything that'll move the car (318/360 or whatever you can find) and build the motor then.  You can leave the final paint for last, but rust never sleeps!

[Baldwinvette77]

yeah, i agree, finish the body, its pretty much the main reason you do a resto isn't it? 

[moparsr2ast]

  If nothing else, take individual components to the body shop... doors, hood ect. Just take what you can afford, then move on to the next body part. They can seal the parts after the bodywork is done without actually painting them, or have em painted also... your choice.  You can scuff and spray jambs and engine compartment yourself with relatively little effort, or have a buddy help. When you get all that done, you will just have the roof and quartes to finish. Put your drivetrain in, and take it somewhere to have the body finished. This will give you a very nice street cruiser with low effort.

     Bob

[miller time]

im more of a make it run like a stagged rat, then a make it purtty type of guy
where should i start on the  rest of the car? a few i deas would be great im hoping one sticks with me and get be back workin on the car, havent touched it in months so have to start slow or risk burning out like last time, thanks

[ACUDANUT]

You have to get the body work done first.  Get er done...now.

[areibel]

What does the body need?  Maybe post a few pics and we could make some suggestions. 
You don't have to do the mega bucks paint, but do the body work right the first time.  Heck get it straight then use a couple coats of epoxy primer to cover it all up, do a low buck interior with some Whitney carpet and seat covers if you have to, but get it back together and running.  Nothing will improve your motivation better than driving it, and and a built motor on a stand won't do much for that.

[b5blue]

Hey your back and you kept the car, good for you.
  Guys he's 20 now....there is so much still ahead for him yet lets not knock him off whatever his plan is, at least he hung on to it and something is happening!  I ran my car 18 years rusty and leaking water in the rain (stored 6 years.) while I raised my kids and it got me to work and the store paying for it's keep. 
  No doubt doing the body is good advice but for five years all he's been able to do is sit in in and dream!  Good luck!

[JB400]

If you don't care what it looks like, locate all your parts and put it together.  Build the motor, install, and have fun.  But, if you're planning on doing some painting in the future, why not do it now while the car is already apart.  It'll keep you from doing some work twice.

[miller time]

the problem is theres 1 good body guy/painter i know of, but hes left me hangin a few times and works 6 days a week and has a family, he already missed a few times i was ready to hand him $2k and he didnt show up, not to mention the other 2 body shops that screwed me over, i dont have good luck with it, ever.
but the body needs body lines put back on it, and the whole car needs a coat of bondo, (i know it does i spent a month straightening and welding the body panels as best as they could be)
pretty much the only thing on the car now is suspension, axles front wheels, k member exhaust, steering, brakes and fuel system, everything else is off the car
the rear fenders and doors and front fenders need to be oshpo-ed and sound deadener put on, i rebuilt my 727 a year and a half ago, looking for a manual so i am waiting as long as i can to get a torque converter (if i get a manual it'd be a waste to buy a converter)
i have almost all the interior and drive line, original 69 charger wire harness (tail, engine, dash, lights) all the glass all the sheet metal, i have almost everything i just need to start on it again but im trying to make a plan or a list so i dont just look at the whole car, i can see it broken up

and the car will get it body work done, LATER, not next week or next month but when someone with some sense is availible to help me knock it out, it is in the plan just not the current plan

and i have to clear up some space and i will get some more pictures up, P.S. the car is now painted interior engine bay and underside, the body and panels are primed, the rear fenders have alot of mud on them (built it up so i could knock it down smooth, hopefully)
also i will be making my car a full frame with custom subframe conectors (something else new im a certified stick welder now too)

[ws23rt]

the problem is theres 1 good body guy/painter i know of, but hes left me hangin a few times and works 6 days a week and has a family, he already missed a few times i was ready to hand him $2k and he didnt show up, not to mention the other 2 body shops that screwed me over, i dont have good luck with it, ever.
but the body needs body lines put back on it, and the whole car needs a coat of bondo, (i know it does i spent a month straightening and welding the body panels as best as they could be)
pretty much the only thing on the car now is suspension, axles front wheels, k member exhaust, steering, brakes and fuel system, everything else is off the car
the rear fenders and doors and front fenders need to be oshpo-ed and sound deadener put on, i rebuilt my 727 a year and a half ago, looking for a manual so i am waiting as long as i can to get a torque converter (if i get a manual it'd be a waste to buy a converter)
i have almost all the interior and drive line, original 69 charger wire harness (tail, engine, dash, lights) all the glass all the sheet metal, i have almost everything i just need to start on it again but im trying to make a plan or a list so i dont just look at the whole car, i can see it broken up

and the car will get it body work done, LATER, not next week or next month but when someone with some sense is availible to help me knock it out, it is in the plan just not the current plan

and i have to clear up some space and i will get some more pictures up, P.S. the car is now painted interior engine bay and underside, the body and panels are primed, the rear fenders have alot of mud on them (built it up so i could knock it down smooth, hopefully)
also i will be making my car a full frame with custom subframe conectors (something else new im a certified stick welder now too)

I read this over several times and have come believe that what you have accomplished on your own so far tells me you can do the body line and panel prep. I went through this myself.
You said you spent a month welding and straightening panels the best you could and they need a lot of bondo. I think you have developed a good enough eye to reduce the amount of bondo needed to just a skim coat. This is the best way to the finish line.
A good body man will likely tell you your panels are not ready for bondo. Your good eye and a body file will tell you what to do. Take your time because it is free. Try spot application of bondo yourself. You will become the guy you now want to hire.

[miller time]

thanks, i did my truck fender and no has ever noticed (hammer primer bondo paint)
panels were quite ready for bondo i was wasting time as far as everyone was concerned, i know how to do body work im actually pretty decent at it, in small areas, body lines are beyond me though, noone has taught me how todo any kind of body work, so with how massive the charger is and how many body lines it has (more important how many lines mines missing) im lost

But i dont see why its a big deal to make it run primer seal it and work on the bodywork whenever, taping windows and all is time consuming but not hard, id rather spend more time making it drive so i can enjoy then making it so other people can enjoy it

Hopefully tommarrow i will clear out the garage so maby some pictures will be in the near future

[472 R/T SE]

I like this attitude way better.  Welcome back.  Real glad you kept it.  I was honest to goodness worried that you were gonna wrap the Charger up around a tree. 
I thought the person you bought it from had spent a pile of $$ on it already?  What exactly did you buy?

I don't blame you with the body work.  I've never completely tore a motor down, replaced heads on a Chebby as far as opening one up.  That & body work.  Don't worry about it, I would venture to guess there's only about 15% of the members' that do absolutely everything. 


If I were you, I'd get it on the road & enjoy it as is.  Since the engine bay has already been colored it won't be near the pain when time comes for complete color.  That way you can enjoy it right away while you save up for complete body/paint.  For a while I thought running around in primer was the cool thing to do.   

[miller time]

I like this attitude way better.  Welcome back.  Real glad you kept it.  I was honest to goodness worried that you were gonna wrap the Charger up around a tree. 
I thought the person you bought it from had spent a pile of $$ on it already?  What exactly did you buy?

I don't blame you with the body work.  I've never completely tore a motor down, replaced heads on a Chebby as far as opening one up.  That & body work.  Don't worry about it, I would venture to guess there's only about 15% of the members' that do absolutely everything. 


If I were you, I'd get it on the road & enjoy it as is.  Since the engine bay has already been colored it won't be near the pain when time comes for complete color.  That way you can enjoy it right away while you save up for complete body/paint.  For a while I thought running around in primer was the cool thing to do.   

yeah that's why I'm glad i didn't get it done yet because i still have her and she hasn't hit anything yet, and they put money in the engine did but the valves were kissing the pistons and it needed punched out the crank turned new heads pistons rods etc etc
and that's exactly what i was thinking when i got the car and no one liked the idea and now its about the same, but this time i going to be politely stuburn  P.S. primer is cool, black primer and clear can look great

[b5blue]

You can use Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. I've been "field testing" it on my jeep and it's holding up well in the Fl. sun. It's fairly cheap and easy to spray yet protects very well. 

[moparsr2fast]

  Brought mine home in pieces, a year later it is drivable, and I don't think the primer sealer takes away from it to bad....





 

[miller time]

Welcome Moparsr2fast, im jealous she looks great
Thanks B5 ill check it out i only need a little my cars rust free just for where i cant see.

If anyone in middle Florida and wants to make some $ helping me put it together, we might be able to work something out someone thats done it is always helpful 

[miller time]

my picture file size is too large, ideas?

[JB400]

I load my pics in my Paint program on the computer.  Choose File, select properties.  Adjust height to around 400 and width to around 750-800 and make sure it's below the 200 kb limit.  Give it an oddball name and save.  It's always worked for me.

[miller time]

^ i totally forgot to take pictures  , but im paint in the doors and rear fenders and front fenders today with rubberized undercoating, so hopefully i can get some pictures took, but im more hopefull to work on it 
also pistons and rods and finished, block and crank are home, along with cam, rings, gaskets, intake, and a few other pieces, still need heads, push rods, bearings, oil pump, ect.

[1974dodgecharger]

still looks sweet as fck......

[miller time]

^thanks
im told to make the trunk "lips" under trunk corners, perfect and bodywork perfect before building the car, body work is the soul reason my car has taken 5 years, no one near me is good at bodywork, or reasonable. But since the engine is almost finished if the car is not done, then I am going to start assembling and building my car, and just knock down the bondo and spray some color.
Is there a way to build a car with minimum body work that needs minimal disassembly before painting?
and what can i do on the car that wont interfere with painting and body work?
its an empty shell with a steering column suspension brakes, fuel and brake lines and tires, thanks

[Dino]

^thanks
im told to make the trunk "lips" under trunk corners, perfect and bodywork perfect before building the car, body work is the soul reason my car has taken 5 years, no one near me is good at bodywork, or reasonable. But since the engine is almost finished if the car is not done, then I am going to start assembling and building my car, and just knock down the bondo and spray some color.
Is there a way to build a car with minimum body work that needs minimal disassembly before painting?
and what can i do on the car that wont interfere with painting and body work?
its an empty shell with a steering column suspension brakes, fuel and brake lines and tires, thanks

After all that work, time and money you're going to be kicking yourself for a long time to come if you don't do the prep and paint right.  There has to be someone who can do body work?  Place an ad on CL, I used to do body work on the weekends all the time.

[fizz]

Body work is tedious, tiring, dirty work. Making a living is why people do it. The really good guys add self satisfaction by doing classic or custom work. A body man worthy of working on a classic cars should be making $20+. A shop needs to add 30+ per hr. to cover real estate and overhead. It takes me about 5 years of free time to complete a car, mechanical, interior, etc. About 2 years is body and paint. I believe I get around 1000 hrs in body and paint, although I havn't kept track. A $1500 compressor and a $1000 worth of tools and a couple thousand in good material will get it close to paint. Alot of guys have the equipment in their home garages to do side work and their own stuff, and will do the work for side money. Doing the work in their off time is what it is, especially when they are already working full time. I just completed new quarters, floors, dissasembly to the last bolt, derusting , sandblasting engine bay and undercarraige, sanding off all paint on the exterior sheetmetal. It is going to a GOOD body shop for finish body work, prime and paint and will spend $10,000+. It will take 4-6 months, as collision repair will come first, but will look better than new when done.

[Dino]

Body work is tedious, tiring, dirty work. Making a living is why people do it. The really good guys add self satisfaction by doing classic or custom work. A body man worthy of working on a classic cars should be making $20+. A shop needs to add 30+ per hr. to cover real estate and overhead. It takes me about 5 years of free time to complete a car, mechanical, interior, etc. About 2 years is body and paint. I believe I get around 1000 hrs in body and paint, although I havn't kept track. A $1500 compressor and a $1000 worth of tools and a couple thousand in good material will get it close to paint. Alot of guys have the equipment in their home garages to do side work and their own stuff, and will do the work for side money. Doing the work in their off time is what it is, especially when they are already working full time. I just completed new quarters, floors, dissasembly to the last bolt, derusting , sandblasting engine bay and undercarraige, sanding off all paint on the exterior sheetmetal. It is going to a GOOD body shop for finish body work, prime and paint and will spend $10,000+. It will take 4-6 months, as collision repair will come first, but will look better than new when done.

I can't really agree with some of that.  I did collision, custom and resto and it's collison that pays because it's a no hassle job with a steady paycheck.  I loved doing restos but you can't count having a full time job with those.  Sure you get more satisfaction to do classic cars but if there's no work then what can you do?

And for body men it's not tedious, tiring or dirty.  It's what they want to do.  I hated the politics, as with all jobs, but the work is very satisfying.

Maybe you don't like it much and that's fine, but not everyone feels that way.  I love bodywork and can't wait to redo my car. 

[miller time]

i had typed a book of a response, but im going to keep it short, theres 1 last chance for the body work to be done other then that im not wasting my time, money, or risking getting robbed, by some moron, same goes with local shops. after all getting screwed by 2 separate body shops, i could careless about giving another shop a chance, ill just wind up stripping off their screw ups, as usual.
maby ill just go to econo paint, then only want $200 to prep and paint, screw it then i know im getting crap and wont be able to cry about it lol does actually sound like the best idea so far.

ok fizz you put it like that im just wasting my time and i wont consider body work anymore, $10,000 and 4 months to a year, other jobs put ahead of me, No Thanks, sounds like you work for the shops around me.

i dont have alot of money, which isnt even the issue, the issue is the cars going to get done, whether it finishes with the horses out front or the wagon out front, its getting done, im just making the attack plan, every time i think about it the less and less i truly care about making it "pretty" that just means some minority will smash into it with a $500 car and no insurance, because that how life goes
im only 20.... why will i regret paying or having alot more money to redo the lame body work years from now.... seems like thatd be smarter then cheapin out the first time, like what usually happens?? atleast if fizz is right thatd be the only way itd ever happen

[miller time]

by the way thanks for both your responses! happy 7/11

[fizz]

No offense meant. I did body work out of tech school for 10 years, incurable motorhead. I did semi trucks to pay the bills, and cool stuff on the side. I burnt out and went back to school for engineering. My buddies and their buddies would talk me into doing their stuff. I would say I'll do it when I have time, and they would say no prob. A bike was easy and would finish in 2-3 weeks. A car was forever because I didn't feel like working on them every day and weekend. Then I would get phone calls until they made me feel guilty and would work every moment of nonwork or sleep time. But to the best of my ablity, they were perfect. I only charged $15/ hr + material, which isn't peanuts if that is what the customer makes per hour.  My last customer job was 11 years ago. When people ask now I offer to help them in my shop if they are there every minute I am there. So far, no takers, I feel because they think their free time is too valuable. In that case, I think they should take their stuff to a good body shop that does classic cars, and pay the bill. I realize there are alot of shops that don't do this stuff and you would be disappointed, but somebody is creating the really nice cars. Really, anybody can do this stuff if they educate themselves, buy some tools, and pay attention to detail, if they think it is worth their time. And there lies the story time or money. Anything less than what it takes is a waste of time.

[miller time]

When people ask now I offer to help them in my shop if they are there every minute I am there. So far, no takers, I feel because they think their free time is too valuable.

if your shops close by me ill be there everyday, i have the tools and materials and wouldnt mind pay upwards of $20 maby even $25 an hour but they have to have both quality and speed, ill be right there if theyll let me ill mix mud and run a sanding board but its a waste of time to do all the work since i can only get it "EHH" at best and then there still no one worth while to do the body lines and final bodywork.

[fizz]

I am in MN, and if you really want to do it I am happy to coach you thru. I bet other guys would too. First step. Pick a panel and set your mind to only that panel. Pick an easy one first and post a pic. My daughter did a vw bug @ 14 by doing exactly what I told her.

[miller time]

I am in MN, and if you really want to do it I am happy to coach you thru. I bet other guys would too. First step. Pick a panel and set your mind to only that panel. Pick an easy one first and post a pic. My daughter did a vw bug @ 14 by doing exactly what I told her.

im in florida, thanks though

[1974dodgecharger]

Almost miller time yet to burn some rubber 

[miller time]

SOOO yeah 
i have brand new (less then a week old) aluminum stealth heads, platinum pistons and rods from 440 source, Big 545 lift cam, timing chain, ARP bolts, Clevite 77 bearings, ECT.
took it all to my buddies house to build im all ready just saw my BRAND NEW $1200 heads and $100 head bolts and the engines on the stand, i spin it right side up and
BAMM i have 4 cracks on my freeze plugs, 2 on both sides, center freeze plug, ranges from, 1/2inch up to 4inches long
i took it immediately back to the machine shop, who with in 15 minutes decide my block is only worthy of a 1 time boat anchor
so i have about $3500 in parts for the block, and over $450 in machine work in a block that is completely worthless
BUT he said if i bring a block to the shop i will get it back ready to build with my parts, no charge for machine work
my buddy has a 1973 440 stock bore, $300, i have a 1968 440 that was bore'd 30 over
opinions?
ive been painting my butt off and everything else on this car recently to get it running, i didnt need this to happen, especially when im broke, because of the damn unusable block
thanks for all ideas and opinions, dont talk down me....

[JB400]

What size of pistons did you buy for your current boat anchor?  I would almost go ahead and get your buddies block if it checks out.


Sorry to hear about your misfortune

[Aero426]

If you need a block, get the standard bore one over to the machine shop.   It sounds like the machine shop will make you whole.   

[Patronus]

I am in MN, and if you really want to do it I am happy to coach you thru. I bet other guys would too. First step. Pick a panel and set your mind to only that panel. Pick an easy one first and post a pic. My daughter did a vw bug @ 14 by doing exactly what I told her.

Not too sure I agree with that either..To make it straight you'll pick a side. You get hung up on one panel and you might be asking for trouble. 

[miller time]

I am in MN, and if you really want to do it I am happy to coach you thru. I bet other guys would too. First step. Pick a panel and set your mind to only that panel. Pick an easy one first and post a pic. My daughter did a vw bug @ 14 by doing exactly what I told her.

Not too sure I agree with that either..To make it straight you'll pick a side. You get hung up on one panel and you might be asking for trouble. 

you also cant judge or teach body work in letters, but thats i dead horse ive been ignoring for a while

[miller time]

storker- they are like .030 over so if its stock bore with little to no, corrosion then it should be good to punch, but im holding the machine shop responsible if they clear it to be machined, and it has a crack i find after, im making them buy me a "perfect" block. or refund me plus a block, and then some.
also
aero, thats the plan, i dont plan on giving them $1 to fix this, there most massive of Effe Ups. IJS
so its looks like ill be building a 73 440 and not a 68 440,, that leaves a bad taste in my mouth, my cars production date is sept 68  

P.S. numbers dont match! or this would be some kind of different.

[miller time]

im going to try and take the 73 440 block to the shop tomorrow if life works out good, shouldnt be anything out of pocket right now, atleast not till the block is checked and machined, if im that lucky  

[JB400]

Fingers crossed for you that it works in your favor.

[miller time]

Fingers crossed for you that it works in your favor.

thank you

[miller time]

UpDate
painted underside of hood, trunk lid, inside of doors, around windows, and touched up everything else with car color.
re epoxy primer'd the whole outside of the car, and panels, done painting for the most part, for a while!
finished the sound deadner application
sanded down and got some kind of body lines out of my bondo, i applied
almost done painting and ready to install - Dash, steering column, brake & parking brakes

Wanted
#1 GOOD EFFIN 440 BLOCK
wiring
brakes
dash and steering column
hang the doors and trunk lid
install the motor if i so get it and paint the headers/engine, before so
Just Get The Car Ready To Drive, Bare Bones. some call it rat rod, but, im just going nothing fancy just functional, right now, no cutting or modifying the car.

[miller time]

so i have a 1967 440 block sitting at the machine shop, apparently its decked and already 30 over even though me and my buddy i got it from think its stock, o well, when it gets hot tanked were going to go inspect it, really dont like the machine shop anymore. but i got the brake pedal assembly in and painted, along with the dash, steering column, which i beefed up all the mounting bolts atleast 2 sizes and parking brake assembly, and i got the steering box bolted down with large grade 8 bolts.
still not sure what to do next on the car.
 
any ideas on what to do next?
itll be like a month if the other block is good till i get to build my engine, im just building the car so i can drive it, nothing else for now, skipping all of the interior things that aren't used, like carpet and door panels, and no trim or anything on the outside of the car, it will all be done later, its just alot faster, easier, and easier on my already looted wallet, if i push off what i can until it drives.

[hemi-hampton]

Did the Machine shop check to see if block was good before they machined it?  Don't understand whats going on? Get the next block Magnafluxed. LEON.


P.S. A cracked freeze plug would not render a block useless?

[Lord Warlock]

Part of the reason why many of us say bodywork, is because it is one of the few things you can work on yourself, over a long period of time, a panel at a time if necessary, and for most of it, you really don't need to be a pro at it, by the time you get to the body lines you would have gained experience enough to attempt it.  I'm still not happy with about 4 inches of the body line on mine, but decided to live with it and move on as it was holding me back from the rest.  I figured sometime in the future i'd be able to afford a replacement panel here or there. 

I can understand putting it off for later, but you really have to have a good foundation to build the rest up from, and covering up problem areas for later will usually bite you, it'll never be cheaper to fix than it is right now, trust me, I waited 30 years to do mine, and i've spent more on trim than i spent on the entire car.  Heck, the two wheels i just bought for the rear cost more than i paid for the whole car initially. 

Organize the project, identify what areas WILL need work,  Identify approximately how long it will take to do each sub project portion, then decide what parts you want to work on first.  Go to the hardest part of each piece, and work out from that spot, that way it only gets easier as you go.  (comical) The main thing is to work on a piece at a time, and to attempt to make progress on it each time.  Eventually you'll get it to where you're happy with it.  Don't get rushed, as long as you have a place to store it, and you don't depend on it for daily transportation there isn't a need to rush anything.  It sounds like you're already working on the motor section, if it were me, I'd be sandblasting, grinding, and cleaning any rust in and around the engine bay.  If any areas need to be cut out and repaired, now is the time to do it, BEFORE you put a block back into the engine bay.  I'd also clean off every suspension part, I'd take the crossmember out and grind it clean, primer and paint it (spray cans work fine for these parts, or a can of paint and a brush)  I'd also focus on removal and update of the front brakes, spindles, rotors, sway bars etc.  Taking the front fenders off is simple once you get the grill out.  Also, Once the engine is done, make sure you paint the block before you drop it in place, putting in a grungy motor will only aggravate you later. 

There is a joy that can be had by owning an unusual or rare car, and the more you do yourself the more satisfaction you'll get out of driving it.  But getting one back in shape from a basic shell can be a LOOOONG drawn out process, or it can be an all consuming driving force to get it done as soon as possible, in which it takes over every weekend, every spare minute for months or years.  I've been lucky in that I could always put one project aside and work on a different one....like one that didn't need any bodywork, or one that shouldn't need much mechanical work.  Then go back to the first project when I'd gotten ready to start again. 

Good luck, and welcome back,  I've stepped aside for 5 years or more before, but it will never get done if you don't actually work on it or take it somewhere to get it done.  And some parts such as body and paint can be gawdawfully expensive to pay someone else to do it, so it makes sense to try to do it yourself if its possible.  I've done all the work on mine myself so far,  but its reaching a point now that i can take it elsewhere to have stuff done I'd prefer not to do, I just tried to get as many of the parts i'd need ahead of time, when I could afford it, or work on parts that i could do the work myself when i couldn't afford it. 

[Lord Warlock]

I agree with Leon,  a cracked freeze plug or two (three or eight for that matter) shouldn't mean the block is ruined, in fact, that is what the freeze plug is designed to do, fail when water freezes inside the motor, to keep it from cracking the block itself.  I've had a chevy motor that lost a whole side of two piston walls when the freeze plugs didn't come out when they should have, and didn't break either.  (that was the last time i ever did a full engine swap, swore off doing it ever again, only now i should have mine removed and rebuilt) You should be able to have a shop tank the motor and clean out most of the passages, and magnaflux it, the only time you need to replace it is if the block itself is cracked or split open and it can't be repaired.  440s are pretty stout and can put up with a LOT of abuse and nature.  Mine's survived the same conditions that killed the camaro project (chevy motor mentioned above) the charger and 440 were sitting 5 feet in front of the camaro when one motor froze, and cracked, and the other did just fine.   

[miller time]

Did the Machine shop check to see if block was good before they machined it?  Don't understand whats going on? Get the next block Magnafluxed. LEON.


P.S. A cracked freeze plug would not render a block useless?

apparently my machine shop wont magnaflux an entire block   
they said they checked it but since he told me NOT todo my freeze plugs, which i argued i had new ones, and he said the old ones dont leak, so dont do it, he talked me and i guess himself out of checking the broad sides of the block 
and apparently id wind up seriously cracking the block if i built it, plus $3400+ in part and $400 in machine work, i dont want to put it in a compromised block, since a new one only cost $300
P.S. i could dill a hole at the ends of the cracks grind a bevel the whole crack, and use a rose bud torch to heat the block while using a welding torch to melt an old piston ring into the bevel, but if you dont drill the end of the crack it just keeps cracking further as you weld, but then you have to worry about freeze plug fitting and sealing issues

[miller time]

I agree with Leon,  a cracked freeze plug or two (three or eight for that matter) shouldn't mean the block is ruined, in fact, that is what the freeze plug is designed to do, fail when water freezes inside the motor, to keep it from cracking the block itself.  I've had a chevy motor that lost a whole side of two piston walls when the freeze plugs didn't come out when they should have, and didn't break either.  (that was the last time i ever did a full engine swap, swore off doing it ever again, only now i should have mine removed and rebuilt) You should be able to have a shop tank the motor and clean out most of the passages, and magnaflux it, the only time you need to replace it is if the block itself is cracked or split open and it can't be repaired.  440s are pretty stout and can put up with a LOT of abuse and nature.  Mine's survived the same conditions that killed the camaro project (chevy motor mentioned above) the charger and 440 were sitting 5 feet in front of the camaro when one motor froze, and cracked, and the other did just fine.   

thanks for the body work advice, but i just sanded the sides and other bondo i had on her all down and scuffed everything, then i  epoxy primed the whole outside of the car, and used car color under the hood, trunk, package tray, door jams, in-side of doors, around windows, and thats how it will be for a while, ready for body work and paint, or driven in the rain, and everything else ive done, there is no rust on my car or anything thats going in my car, i just put the dash, steering column, brake pedal, master cylinder, and parking brake assembly in a few days ago, and im about to go through my front brakes a final time to check torques, but i have brand new, no name, drilled and cross slotted disc "racing" brakes on the front and massive drums on the rear, which are getting new wheel cylinders, when i have the $35 or however much for new ones, and im about to hang my doors and some other things in the next couple days
and the block cracked around the freeze plugs, 2 cracks going straight up, and one straight down on opposite sides of the block, off the center freeze plugs

[Back N Black]

This little part is a "core plug" not a "freeze plug". Under a certain (and rather unlikely) set of circumstances, the core plug might be dislodged by freezing coolant without otherwise damaging the engine. These plugs are simply used to close off a hole in the casting which was formed by a supporting arm of the sand "core" which was used to form the hollow cavities inside the engine block while molten iron was being poured into the sand mold. Thus the proper term "core plug". I have a couple of cracked blocks where the plug did not pop out.

[miller time]

This little part is a "core plug" not a "freeze plug". Under a certain (and rather unlikely) set of circumstances, the core plug might be dislodged by freezing coolant without otherwise damaging the engine. These plugs are simply used to close off a hole in the casting which was formed by a supporting arm of the sand "core" which was used to form the hollow cavities inside the engine block while molten iron was being poured into the sand mold. Thus the proper term "core plug". I have a couple of cracked blocks where the plug did not pop out.

yeah.. all "freeze plugs" are, are just the cheapest easiest way to plug holes needed for the casting process, freezeing has nothing todo with them, the whole popping out in winter thing was a fluke, but usually works to our advantage, so why change a good cheap thing, i bet has been said many times
but still ruined my block, so ill just call them CRAP

[miller time]

UpDate
Got the Dash in (used 2 nuts and bolts, 2 bolts on the sides and 4 or 5 self tapping screws in the center to hold the dash in) and almost done painting it, brake pedal and parking brake set up are in, the steering column is in and hooked up, everything is nice and painted
im tearing apart the brakes one last time to check the torque specs and mainly im putting all new wheel studs and lug nuts on the car, no more reverse thread lugs!
im about to put it the wiper transmission and then i can wire the dash and start getting crazy around here.

? Anyone know where and which brake distribution block i need? i have a new master and brake lines, new disc brakes in the front and drums in the rear, thanks.

[TUFCAT]

How about some pictures!

[miller time]

How about some pictures!

thats one of those things in 5 years ive never figured out how to do, ive tried and their too big and i can resize them in paint, i guess was the last suggestion
oh yeah i fixed my grill, like 7 of the mounting tabs snapped so i used plastic epoxy to make new tabs and drill new holes