master cylinder and prop. valve question

[cougs]

All,
I've searched the archives but can't find the answer.  I'm adding disc brakes to the front of my charger.  My car is a four drum/manual car.  I will keep the manual brakes.  I'm all set for discs, pistons, etc.  I'm picking up a Cardone 10-1404 disc brake master cylinder.  Do I simply replace the manual drum cylinder with this?

I also need a proportioning valve.  Where can I easily pick one up that will be plug and play?  I see the wilwood/mopar performance piece for $87.95.  Is that what I need or can I get away with something less expensive?

[Hard Charger]

you will need a new MC for a drum/disc set up than what your drum/drum set up had.

go to Pirate Jacks.com and it is explained. will need a new block also. they have all the parts if you want them.

[cougs]

The cardone 10-1404 is for disc brakes bu can i mount it right up?   Do I need a dist block or just a prop valve? 

[Hard Charger]

when i replaced my drums up front i bought a complete kit that included a new block. the block was physically a differant size and shape and included a metering block.
i also converted to power brakes.
i have read conflicting information on this forum about replacing the block or not, and it appears that many people who have made this conversion did not change there block and had no problem with there brakes.

[resq302]

The block is the same for disc and drums from 1966-1970.  The difference is the metering block / hold off valve that disc brake cars have  that is in the line between the distribution block and the rear brake line.  Without this, in a panic stop, the back brakes would lock up first causing a possible skid and loss of control of the car.  When my hold off valve was out for rebuild, (don't use Apple Hydraulics!) I just put a jumper piece of brake line in there and found out exactly why the factory designed the hold off valve in there.  Back brakes locked up really quick and the back end of the car started sliding around.  Im sure it looked cool as hell but also scared the hell out of me at the same time!

[bill440rt]

I did a similar swap on my '68. 4-wheel manual drums originally, then converted to manual front disc.
The main proportioning valve can stay. You need to add this hold-off valve in just after it to the front/rear main line:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-69-70-Mopar-B-body-Disc-Brake-Brass-Rear-Line-Hold-Off-Non-Adjustable-Valve-/200912224376?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec74d4078&vxp=mtr

Install a disc/drum manual M/C.

[cougs]

resq and bill 440,
thanks for the help!  I'll get the hold-of valve on order.

Which M/C will I need?  Will this work?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/A1C0/101404/01292.oap?year=1970&make=Plymouth&model=Fury&vi=1232480&ck=Search_01292_1232480_-1&pt=01292&ppt=C0066

[resq302]

Be very careful of the repop ones that have the INL  stamped into them.  They are made by In Line Tube company and have had major issues with it.  Mine ended up turning into a one way valve and causing my rear brakes to be come locked up as it would not relieve the pressure back to the master cylinder.  I ended up having to find an original and got that rebuilt.  Maybe the newer ones have had the issue resolved but I would still be leary.

[Hard Charger]

The block is the same for disc and drums from 1966-1970.  The difference is the metering block / hold off valve that disc brake cars have  that is in the line between the distribution block and the rear brake line.  Without this, in a panic stop, the back brakes would lock up first causing a possible skid and loss of control of the car.  When my hold off valve was out for rebuild, (don't use Apple Hydraulics!) I just put a jumper piece of brake line in there and found out exactly why the factory designed the hold off valve in there.  Back brakes locked up really quick and the back end of the car started sliding around.  Im sure it looked cool as hell but also scared the hell out of me at the same time!

the diagram i have is calling for the "metering" block for the front brakes and a "prop." (or hold off) valve was pictured for the rear brakes on the earlier production blocks but is now not necessary (newer design).
your response would be the case on a stock system not a conversion with newer parts.

[cougs]

I'm using new, but stock-style parts.  The hold-off valve should be enough, right?

Still looking for feedback on the right manual M/C for this setup.  Thanks!

[resq302]

That master cyl looks very similar to the one I have on my charger with factory disc brakes.  Just a heads up though, A1Cardone rebuilds are a hit or miss kind of rebuild.  You might be lucky, you might not be and have to send it out to some other place to get rebuilt professionally.

[cougs]

Do you have factory manual or power?

[resq302]

his first post he said he had 4 drum manual brakes.

[cougs]

resq302, I was asking you if you had manual or power brakes.  You said the master cylinder looks similar. 

[resq302]

My car was a factory equipped power disc brake car.