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440 just won't start

Started by 66fury, March 12, 2013, 07:10:46 PM

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66fury

the lifters came from comp cams, hey NW that sounds just like the issue i'm having, i hope u can remember what you had to do!!! haven't put new lifters in yet....

bobs66440

Keep in mind, the overall length of the lifter doesn't matter. What matters is the cup in the plunger where the push rod sits. It's best to get an adjustable push rod length checker. Use it to set the preload you want (.020"-.040" is optimum), measure the checker with a 12" dial caliper. If your stock rods are too long or short, you need to get custom length ones made. I got mine from Smith Bros.

Normally I would only check two or three, but I was getting some big differences, so I figured it's best to do them all so I can find the longest and shortest, then find a happy medium.





With a cast iron block/aluminum head engine, you get .012"-.015" growth (distance between lifter and rocker arm) so I had to take that into account. I ended up with a length that will give me between .023"-.057" preload when hot which is well within the lifter's operating range.

And, I would not install new lifters on a used cam. You may get away with it, but if you wipe a lope, you will end up with a real mess... :Twocents:

66fury

excellent advice, i did not have many quick options available so i choose to go to stock lifters from mother mopar, i did measure the lifter the proper way and they where longer. i do apperciate the advice guys. still a have a small problem even after fixing the lifters.... very little spark from all new componets?? another day of troubleshooting  :brickwall:

69wannabe

I have used comp cams cam and lifters kits in several 383's and 440's and haven't ran into a problem like this. :-\ Not saying that if they were holding the valves open there wouldn't be a problem but it shouldn't make the spark weak from the ignition. Make sure you got 12 volts going to the resistor and 8 ish volts going to the coil. You could even run 12 volts to the coil for a short period of time to see if it starts or if anything changes. Are you running a mopar ignition kit with an orange box? Like said above I have had to run a ground wire from the back of the block to one of the mounting screws on the orange box and even scrapped some of the paint off the orange box where the screw goes through to get it to ground. Have you swapped to a new orange box? They seem to go bad more often these days than they used to and the pick up coil inside the distributor could be bad also causing no fire issues!! Hope yall get it going soon!!!

ottawamerc

I agree with some of these guys, I would do a compression check before tearing into the engine but it sounds like your into it now anyways. As for the spark, make sure the spark has a good bluish color to it at the plugs any orange looking spark indicates a weak spark and that will cause alot of issues with a fresh tight engine. Is there any sign of unburnt fuel on the plugs after you try them? Oh and also be wary of any exess fuel that you may be pumping into your exhaust system trying to fire this thing cause once it does fire it may ruin your mufflers and your shorts :hah: Been there done that!
I did once have a problem with a misfire on one of my boats that caused me lots of grief and hours of changing parts and by a fluke one day I found it,, it was the 12V wire from the distributor to the coil that had broken down and caused all my problems. Easy fix but a nightmare to find.

Good luck
Scott
This hobby is more than just our cars, it's the people you get to meet along the way!!!