power steering box replacement questions

[nrt69]

getting ready to replace all the power steering components in my 69 Charger and have a couple of questions...

1. do i really need to disconnect the steering column/shaft to raise it off the steering box (according to my service manual) or could i slide the steering box down out of the steering shaft?
2. how do i know if the steering box pitman arm is centered? I cant move it by hand and need to know if the steering wheel turns, lock to lock, will be the same on each side.
3. any tips/tricks to making this job easier?

[Kern Dog]

The steering box has nowhere to go with the column and coupler in place. The steering column HAS to be pulled away from the firewall to allow the steering box to pull away and down from the K member.
The pitman arm is indexed with 4 marks. This means that it can only go on 4 ways. Sounds like trouble but remember that within its range of travel, the steering only travels a few inches from lock to lock. In short, you'll find that with the idler arm and tie rods on correctly, the pitman only fits one way. Might be a good idea to take pictures of it all before disassembly. If its too late for that, check for pictures elsewhere of other cars.
Tips? Removing the exhaust manifold/header  really helps. Remove the steering box from underneath. The steering column removal is easy enough to do alone, but it really helps to have a helper when putting it back in. The steering coupler has a flat spot/index that mates with the splined shaft on the steering box. The helper is needed to ensure that they match up. After the coupler starts to slide on, I've often had trouble getting it to seat fully. I have had to resort to using a pickle fork against the coupler and hammering on the fork to get the coupler to slide down. Almost 95% of the steering column installs are like this for me. 5 in 100 slide right in place.
I have always had trouble with the thin steel retainer on the coupler. They get bent and come loose, then the grease inside gets contaminated. Recently i switched to using a rubber/neoprene boot that slides over the coupler. "Steer and Gear" sells them, but they are spendy...$28 each! I hated to pay that price, but since my luck with the steel retainers has been so crappy, I just bit the bullet.
Finally, if you get it all together and the steering wheel isn't centered, you can take the car for an alignment OR do as I did: I centered the wheel, then clocked BOTH tie rods until the tires pointed straight ahead. If both tie rods are rotated exactly the same amount, the alignment is unaffected.

[bill440rt]

All good tips. 
NOT a fun job, but it can be done. If you have headers it is way more of a pain in the ass than if you have manifolds.
I found no need to remove the D/S exhaust manifold. Depending on the thickness of your pipes you may have to drop the D/S head pipe. I did not.
I've gone thru 2 of the Steer-n-Gear boots, both have split on the steering column shaft within a short amount of time. I now have a third waiting to go on, but I am hesitant because it will probably split again. I might as well resort back to the stock design.

[NHCharger]

When we replaced the steering box on my 71 (BB with headers) we ended up removing the motor mount bolt to jack the engine up a few inches for clearance.

On my 68 some idiot had hammered the steering coupler onto the splined shaft. I could not separate, even with the pickle fork. ended up sticking my pneumatic air chisel beside the pickle fork and also applied heat to the area to finally separate the two, and yes I did remove the roll pin first.

[Fred]

When we replaced the steering box on my 71 (BB with headers) we ended up removing the motor mount bolt to jack the engine up a few inches for clearance.

On my 68 some idiot had hammered the steering coupler onto the splined shaft. I could not separate, even with the pickle fork. ended up sticking my pneumatic air chisel beside the pickle fork and also applied heat to the area to finally separate the two, and yes I did remove the roll pin first.

I'm doing a hijack here (please forgive) but I just noticed it says "supreme commander" in your avatar title NHCharger. How do I become one?  
No seroiusly, what does it mean?
Just curious,  Mrs. Fred

[nrt69]

good info, thanks!
more questions after reading the manual some more and looking at the parts (I haven't done anything yet, im just making sure that when I start this job I will be able to finish it)...

does the roll pin in the coupler go through the gear sticking out of the steering box? the manual makes it look like it does but my new box doesn't have a hole through it so im misinterpreting something or I don't have the right part. I guess it just rests in the indention in that gear sticking out of the box? how do I get that pin out?

the manual says to remove the columns "3" bolts at the floor plate but I have "4". what gives?

the manual mentions nothing about disconnecting or removing anything else on the column (other than the column bracket under the dash) but a steel retainer on the coupler is mentioned here, and then theres the issue of the transmission linkage. am I missing anything?

I do have headers but I think (hope!) the box will come out from under the car.

[Kern Dog]

Inside, you DO have 4 bolts to secure the firewall plate. The columns DO have a linkage arm that is there even if you have a floor shifter. It has a rod that is secured by a thin washer and some type of steel clip. It may have been replaced at some point with a cotter pin. When pulling the column, you only need to pull it away from the firewall by about 3 inches to allow the steering box enough room to come out.
I just had the column out of my 70 Charger when I was trying to find the cause of a No-Start issue. I had a helper wwhen it was time to put it back in.

[nrt69]

what a f-ing pain it was taking everything apart!!!!
headers had to come off to get the box up and out the top. worse part was my drag link didn't want to come apart.

anyways. should I use the existing copper gaskets that go under the power steering hose "nipples" that attach to the steering box? they look pretty flat and I don't see how they can seal all that well. would gasket material be better? O-rings? whats gonna keep it from leaking at these two locations?

[nrt69]

everything back together except the pitman arm. im putting it on under the car and cant get it pressed on the last 1/8-1/4 inch of the steering box shaft. ive beat it with a pickle fork and hammer. Ive put the nut on and tightened it and can get it to move slightly up the shaft but its very tough.

any suggestions on how to press it the rest of the way on?

[Wollfen]

Hi nrt69, with the pitman arm not going the last 1/8in or so on the steering shaft i wouldn't be worried with such a small amount, wont affect the steering dynamics at all. i take it that the retaining nut is tight and shows a little bit of thread yes? If so you are good to go.

[nrt69]

i need it to go up a little more since i have headers and my drag link goes through the header. it will rub/hit if i dont get it on further.

[Hard Charger]

i have seen contact with the header and the drag link on most manufacturers of headers.  usually is slight and can be remedied by a little dimple being made in the header tube.

[ACUDANUT]

"drag link goes through the header"...This must be a small block, as I have never had this problem on a big block.

[Hard Charger]

"drag link goes through the header"...This must be a small block, as I have never had this problem on a big block.

you are correct, a small block problem.

[nrt69]

Finally, if you get it all together and the steering wheel isn't centered, you can take the car for an alignment OR do as I did: I centered the wheel, then clocked BOTH tie rods until the tires pointed straight ahead. If both tie rods are rotated exactly the same amount, the alignment is unaffected.

my wheel is now upside down. not sure how that happened cause the pitman arm was put on half way lock to lock with the wheel clocked correctly. that would take more than a few rotations of the tie rod ends to center the wheel, wouldn't it?
id rather not have to pull the steering wheel.

the new box is ALOT more firm than the old box. I hope that's normal.

yes its a small block. im going to grind a couple of mm off the threads and that should solve the problem. then I get to replace my header gasket that is now leaking, which I knew I should've replaced during this whole process but didn't. Now I get to suffer through removing the header bolts and refilling the coolant again....yay!

[nrt69]

can someone with a 69 charger with power steering tell me how many turns it takes from steering wheel center, to lock, in both left and right hand turns?

im guessing it should be 1.5 - 1.75 turns......... 3 - 3.5 turns total lock to lock.

I think I may have rotated the steering box before putting the pitman arm on and now I just need to pull it off and rotate the steering box .25 - .50 turns and then put the pitman back on.



also, if you happen to have a picture of your steering box with the pitman arm attached, with the steering wheel centered, it would be much appreciated.

[Fred]

can someone with a 69 charger with power steering tell me how many turns it takes from steering wheel center, to lock, in both left and right hand turns?

im guessing it should be 1.5 - 1.75 turns......... 3 - 3.5 turns total lock to lock.

I think I may have rotated the steering box before putting the pitman arm on and now I just need to pull it off and rotate the steering box .25 - .50 turns and then put the pitman back on.



also, if you happen to have a picture of your steering box with the pitman arm attached, with the steering wheel centered, it would be much appreciated.

Complete turn from left to right is 3.5 turns.

[nrt69]

thanks! finally got my wheel and box centered.....