Suspension ideas??

[BY RSCO]

I am now looking into suspension options - though the car is a good way away, I am trying to do all of the homework I can. Here is what I am after: The car is a 69 Charger, full weight (whatever that ends up being) - I want a good working overall suspension, something that drives and handles good (not autocross quality, just stable on the street) and will also allow the car to hook good on the track (when I choose to take it) - car will have 8.5" wheels on the back with drag radials. Thanks in advance for any ideas.

[Wookie316]

RMS in the front and a Street Lynx in the back.

[HPP]

Budget?

Low end can get you new replacement parts for the consumable items with some new springs and shocks for around $1500. High end re-engineerd stuff, such as suggested above, can run upwards of $8-12k. Lots of options in between with an average upgrade cost of $2500-3000 for a complete kit.

[BY RSCO]

thanks for the info - as of now I need to keep it in the $1500-$2000 range - definitely would like to for the top notch setup in time.

[Mike DC]

 
Drag racing, cornering/handling, and comfortable ride quality are three different masters to serve.  No one single setup caters to them all ideally. 


I'm guessing that your priorities are something like:  50% drag racing, 25% handling, and 25% comfort? 

[WHITE AND RED 69]

Put some of the budget into a good quality set of shocks. Look into Ridetech, QA1, Bilstein, or Hotchkis/Fox shocks. A good shock will make a huge difference in the handling.

As for other parts look into what Firmfeel and Hotchkis have to offer. You should be able to get a great setup with 2 grand. Get a firm feel stage 2 or 3 steering box (if you have power steering), tubular upper control arms, big front sway bar, new bushings, ball joints, and subframe connectors. Just those few upgrades will make a big difference. 

[BY RSCO]

 
Drag racing, cornering/handling, and comfortable ride quality are three different masters to serve.  No one single setup caters to them all ideally. 


I'm guessing that your priorities are something like:  50% drag racing, 25% handling, and 25% comfort? 

This is pretty close - I know for sure they are all different animals - been through that during the mustang phase. I know that one is definitely not ideal for the other, so just looking for a setup that will be decent all the way around, but not perfect at any of the above. Thanks again for the ideas / tips!

[HPP]

Based on that, I'd recommend this selection: obviously a kit of all the necessary joints and bushings to restore the integrity of the front geometry $250, substitute upper control arm bushings for Moog offset units to gain more caster $60, Some Bilstein shocks $400, SS springs and hangers $325, .96 torsion bars $300, bigger than stock front sway bar - 1.125 solid or 1.25 tubular $250.  That puts you at $1585 plus an alignment.  If your steering box is shot, plan on an additional $400 to swap it out without a core exchange for a Firm Feel unit. That is $1985 total for a fair street ride and fair drag capability. It will require some tuning to the leafs to improve drag results such as moving clamps or extending shocks, but the heavier rates will make it more consistent and predicatable at teh drags while providing improved street handling performance.

[Mike DC]

Insert Quote
Based on that, I'd recommend this selection: obviously a kit of all the necessary joints and bushings to restore the integrity of the front geometry $250, substitute upper control arm bushings for Moog offset units to gain more caster $60, Some Bilstein shocks $400, SS springs and hangers $325, .96 torsion bars $300, bigger than stock front sway bar - 1.125 solid or 1.25 tubular $250.  That puts you at $1585 plus an alignment.  If your steering box is shot, plan on an additional $400 to swap it out without a core exchange for a Firm Feel unit. That is $1985 total for a fair street ride and fair drag capability. It will require some tuning to the leafs to improve drag results such as moving clamps or extending shocks, but the heavier rates will make it more consistent and predictable at the drags while providing improved street handling performance.

I agree with almost every word of this.


Exception - I might vote to stick with the factory R/T rear leaf springs rather than anything stiffer. 

If you were going for pure cornering/handling then I would even vote for softer leafs than stock.  (with the addition of a small rear swaybar to restore the lost roll stiffness.)

-------------


We have not talked about chassis stiffening yet, which becomes more important as everything else gets better.  IMHO it's hard to go wrong with this list.  I wouldn't build a street car without it these days, no matter the suspension setup:

-  Factory style "torque box" plating on the rockers
-  Subframe connectors (get the laser-cut ones that don't demand hacking up the floor)
-  Front brace between the subframes in the lower radiator area.     
-  shock tower bracing to the firewall/front doorjamb area.

None of this stuff demands hacking up the car.  It can all be done with welding new pieces onto it.

[68Charger4me]

Also one of the best mods is adding the frame ties and core support, i just put my car back on the road after 7 years and it's like night and day difference in how solid the car feels!

[Big Sugar]

Hey RSCO

  What Stage is your Charger at now ?
Are you driving it ?
was/is it Rusted ? Bad ?
  You should first spend your money getting your Chassis in Order first. Cause that is the foundation for your suspension.

After your Foundation is in order , I would highly suggest  Subframe connectors then Torque Boxes, If your Car is apart then there is a lot more welding you can also do to get things ready for a nice ride, let us know .

After that work on a list of parts that will work in your budget, For a Good streetcar you dont need any aftermarket front end K's or 3 or 4 link rear ends. you simply need to start with  Fresh Bushings Throughout ,
Then look at what springs you have as well as front torsion bar size,
Shocks , Bilstein , Edelbrock, Munroe,
Swaybars, Hotchkis, Firm Feel, PST, Addco,

After this you should be considering your braking system.

Keep it simple and you'll be happy, and starting from the foundation ensures your eliminating weak spots in your chassis and suspension componants. and after you've got the basic ride down you can always opt for a little beefing up in componants later on.


Ron

[BY RSCO]

Thanks again for all of the great info - wanted to respond to Ron also, as I have not checked this thread in a bit..

The car is currently stripped down about as far as it can go and on a rotisserie as of now. Rust wise, the underside vitals looked pretty good. Car had rust in most of the usual body panels (lower rear quarters, floor pans, trunk pan) but other than that pretty solid. It is at a great point right now to do whatever is needed for stiffening, prep for suspension, etc (it currently has temporary bracing installed to keep it straight while on rotisserie as well) - Just looking for a decent all around setup. I plan on driving it a bunch, and at least want to take it to the track at times to play, nothing serious. Engine is about half finished (493 with fuel injection, shooting for the 600hp range & around 650 ft/lbs torque) so it should be fun to drive for sure. I plan to start posting some build pictures soon when I ger a good enough collection to post some decent progress without having months and months in between posts. Thanks again everyone for the info

[Big Sugar]

Well your in a good spot to ensure the chassis is buttoned up tight to enhance all your future upgrades. Depending on what uor replacing as far as structure goes or floorpans and quarters, one you know the chassis is sound and check that its sitting square, start with your subframe connectors, If your looking for options the floor fit ones look best at your stage of the build. but square tubing should work just as well. gusseting in the corners with some square tubing is good as well Torque boxes and stich welding seams are also a good way to tighten things up JUST MAKE SURE YOUR CHASSIS IS SQUARE AND FLAT ! especially if the framerails  and floors are rusty
Stich welding the front inner fenders at the firewall and the upper control arm mounts is also a worthwhile investment.
Do your home work and search the forums there is lots of info on chassis stiffening.
Even if you just plan to build a lazy cruizer having a tight chassis is going to improve on how  your rides feel, even with base model shocks and bushings if your Charger is stripped down to the shell ....weld away

Here is just the end of what I had done to my 66, would have done even more if I had to do it all over again.

Still need to strip the rear half of the car but need to aquire some more suspension/rear end  parts first

http://s438.photobucket.com/user/Big-Sugar/library/?sort=3&page=1#/user/Big-Sugar/library/?sort=3&page=1&_suid=136624363444907244505938660798


Ron