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Aggravating valve cover oil leaks

Started by bull, April 01, 2013, 01:39:39 AM

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bull

Is there a better valve cover gasket than these cork gaskets I have? Every time I run the engine I get puddles of oil under the car. Granted, the puddles are getting smaller because I've tightened the snot out of them probably five times. Still, each time I tighten them down and let them sit a while I can almost go right back and tighten them again the same amount. It's as if they compress to a point, relax, and then let the oil leak before I tighten them again. :brickwall: It's driving me up the wall.

JB400

Have you tried a neoprene rubber gasket?  Might check to make sure your valve covers aren't warped as well.

doctor4766

Bull, I was advised to use marine gaskets when my 383 was leaking. Those and using studs (instead of bolts) in the heads to locate the gasket more precisely have worked well for me.
Gotta love a '69

polywideblock

do you have "chrome covers" if so check their not warped mine needed standing on to get them flat ,they were twisted lengthwise :eek2:


  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

b5blue

I got silicone ones off eBay. (From Rick E.) I'm going to use them with my Cal-Custom finned valve covers when install Smith Bros. adjustable push rods.  :yesnod:

Cooter

Stock iron heads will take forever to seal. ANY Gasket will leak to some point, no matter what you hear.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

MrSnicks

I like the steel-core rubber gaskets, and use them. They are pretty forgiving if things aren't 100% flat.

Patrick

Brass

Over-tightening can distort the bolt eyelets and cause leaks.  I would take a look at those surface areas.  They may need to be tapped flat.

tan top

Quote from: Brass on April 01, 2013, 02:44:51 PM
Over-tightening can distort the bolt eyelets and cause leaks.  I would take a look at those surface areas.  They may need to be tapped flat.

thats true :yesnod:

 use to always use sealer with cork , other wise would eventually leak ,    been using felpro black rubber type since i put the motor together when doing the resto , these have been on & off loads changing cams , heads etc a number of times since , all i do is wipe gasket & sealing surfaces with lacquer thinner every time  & bolt them down  , zero leaks so far  :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

71 SE3834V

I used the Fel Pro #VS 50145 R on my 383 w/mopar chrome covers in 2011. It's the rubber coated fiber type. Well, just did the pass. side since the dr. side isn't leaking. Yeah, make sure the flanges are straight and holes flattened.
71 Charger SE 383 4V
72 Galaxie 500 400 2V

Back N Black

I had the same issue, changed gaskets 4 times. What worked for me was the cork gaskets with red RTV silicone.

1970Moparmann

I had a pesky leak that wouldn't go away.  Did the cork/sealant at least 3x.  I got a recommendation to use the below, and haven't had an issue.  You definitely pay for them, but I still have cleaning to do from before.  I plan on running these moving forward-

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93055/overview/
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

resq302

Ive used the Indian Head Gasket compound on both sides of the rubber/cork gasket and have also used the blue loctite on the bolts and nuts.  So far, it has not leaked.  However, they are a major PITA to get the valve covers off. 
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bill440rt

I used the Fel-Pro black rubber/core ones on mine with chrome covers.
Sealed them with Right Stuff black sealer. No leaks.

Also have the MP orange neoprene ones with fabbed aluminum covers with no sealant, no leaks so far.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

johnnycharger

what side do you put sealant on? head, valve cover or both?  :shruggy:

resq302

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

bull

I have stock valve covers and heads. I can't say the valve covers aren't warped but the tops of the heads were milled to help avoid this issue. Obviously it doesn't matter if only one surface is flat though. Looks like I've got several good ideas to try from the advice above. I believe the gaskets I have are the basic FelPro corkers so I could stand an upgrade. Thanks.