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Third generation amp meters ?

Started by billfury, March 19, 2013, 09:06:48 AM

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billfury

I was reading my MCG last night and read that horrible article about the 71 Charger SE that caught on fire. What a freaking shame. Any how, I know that our amp meters are temperamental and will flair up on the slightest surge. What can I do to prevent this? I have opened the harness up and went through each wire and replace anything burnt or brittle. The cluster was gone through cleaning all terminals and replacing bulbs. When taping the harness back together, I even left the two amp wires out. Should I install a fuse into the red amp wire? Thanks

fy469rtse

Quote from: billfury on March 19, 2013, 09:06:48 AM
I was reading my MCG last night and read that horrible article about the 71 Charger SE that caught on fire. What a freaking shame. Any how, I know that our amp meters are temperamental and will flair up on the slightest surge. What can I do to prevent this? I have opened the harness up and went through each wire and replace anything burnt or brittle. The cluster was gone through cleaning all terminals and replacing bulbs. When taping the harness back together, I even left the two amp wires out. Should I install a fuse into the red amp wire? Thanks The simple modification if its similar to 68 69 chargers ralley gauges is to join the two main wires that go to the amp gauge and then run a smaller resisted wire with diodes to both terminals on amp gauge, result should be a lot less current running through gauge, the source of those fires, and it should function as normal, ask this same question of the member doing the cluster restorations, i had to re- calibrate the gauge because it barely moved because of the current drop, a good thing though, the other week point is the bulk head connector, all the current for car going in and out through two small pins in the bulk head connector.

billfury

Would you have a sketch so I have a better under standing?Thank you.

Nacho-RT74

you only need to make mantenience, and a good alternator. thats all... A poor alternator power production is what begins the failure
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

jt66383

I know that this really is not what you were asking but though I would share anyway. This is a copy of something I posted on the 66-67 charger site.


Hey guys, for a while I have been rebuilding my gauges and started to modify a bit.

I have a working voltmeter, using original parts, so the EL will function. I built a driver to follow the battery voltage and move the gauge movement.

Next steps are to get a new gauge face decal made. I contacted the company that I bought my new decals from and they don't seem that interested in working with me. I have a local printing shop that I have used in the past.

I also have to clean up the circuit board and put it in a case, source a connector to connect the ammeter wires together and finish the installation in to the the gauge housing.

Photos

Number 1 shows gauge at 9 volts
Number 2 shows gauge at 12 volts
Number 3 shows gauge at 15 volts


Enjoy
Jeff


Disclaimer. I am only doing this because I was told that it couldn't be done, and if it could why would you. The original ammeter works fine.
It's the stubborn Englishman in me...

jt66383

I now have a volt meter instead of an ammeter, I will follow this up with the mad electric wiring changes to off load the dash wiring harness. I will also be adding relay for the headlights and any other high draw items that the car has.


Cheers
Jeff